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Author:
eclark (NY)
Putting new console sinks in my bathroom where there had been an old vanity. On the upshot, this will look much nicer. On the other hand, everything is exposed. I've got the drains roughed with 1-1/2 pvc in the wall and the way I lined things up, the front of the hub for the 90 in the wall is flush with the face of the stud. The plan for finishes is 1/2" drywall for now with the option to install tile or wainscoting later.
So, my question is what's the best way to set up the connection for the p-trap connection? I've looked at a couple of options and all seem to either be too deep or too shallow.
Option 1: Glue-in trap adapter (spigot type). Cover connection with deep-bell escutcheon after trap installation. The nut will be partially within the depth of the sheetrock but I'll have plenty left to tighten until I tile. After tile, the whole thing is buried in the wall thickness and escutcheons won't be big enough to oversize the hole for future access.
Option 2: Glue-on trap adapter (hub type). Stub out of 90 with a VERY short piece of pipe and glue onto that. This keeps the nut outside the sheetrock and even outside of any future tile. The problem is that until I tile, the whole thing will stick out too far for even a deep bell escutcheon.
Option 3: Milwaukee-type trap. Glue-in (spigot type) female adaptor. Face of female thread would be about flush with drywall and then the 3/8" or 1/2" of finish later (tile or wainscot) wouldn't be a big deal. I can make up the difference in wall thickness there just by sliding the escutcheon on the trap arm further in. I've never used a Milwaukee trap though and the problem I've already had is in finding a DWV spigot female adapter. I think the schedule 40 version is going to stick out too far.
What do the folks here think? have I missed anything? Any other ideas?
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Author:
steve (CA)
The sponsor of this site has the spigot female adapters - [www.plumbingsupply.com]
There's also deep box escutcheons that would hide a trap adapter better than a bell.
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