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Author:
mikeywick (NJ)
I am redoing my bathroom floor and I perplexed on what to do with the existing brass offset flange.
All things being equal I'd like to replace it so its easier to install the floor, but am unsure what's holding it on to the 3" copper pipe. House built 1959 and I assume it's original.
Wondering if it easier to work around this or is there a homeowner friendly way to remove this?
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Author:
packy (MA)
unless someone did something strange, it is simply soldered to the copper pipe below it.
post a picture so we can make a more intelligent response.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
remember:
regardless of any 'gory details'
at the end the bottom line is:
the flange must sit on top of the new finished floor
you most likely will require a plumber to modify the piping and/or resolder the flange
unless
you are willing to 'cut in' the modern inferior PVC and attach same with rubber clamps
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
mikeywick (NJ)
Thank you the photo is below
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
cut the copper riser as low as you can solder on a coupling
install coupling and riser piece about 4" above joists
(if you have the vertical space make the offset with 2 street 45s)
put a piece of 1/2" wall thickness 'rubbertech' insulation around the riser
stuff an old towel in the top (save the price of a cap)
install new flooring flush to rubbertech, remove same, clearance for flange
cut copper and mount flange
bolt flange THROUGH finished floor to subfloor
modify instructions as necessary now that you know how it SHOULD be done
that's : modify, not cheat
good luck
voila = trouble free best practice installation
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
mikeywick (NJ)
Yeah that's too complicated for me. Thank you for the info. Any ballpark ideaprice for a plumber?
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Author:
hj (AZ)
It should be soldered on. But, if you remove it what will you replace it with, since I assume if they used an offset flange, it needs one for that installation, unless you use a different toilet.
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Author:
steve (CA)
Was the offset flange installed, to bring the toilet out farther from the wall behind it? If yes, remove the 90*, shorten the horizontal pipe and install a standard(non-offset) flange.
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Author:
Doug E. (CA)
good call. hire a licensed plumber for sure.
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Author:
packy (MA)
the big question here is "why did someone use an offset flange"?
toilet too close to the wall? too far from the wall? too close to the side wall?
anyway, just heat the center of the flange where you can see solder. heat it from the inside not the outside. the solder will melt and the flange will pull right up.
clean everything up and use a flange that clamps over the copper. you might have to play around to find the flange that fits snugly over the copper as most are made to fit over pipe with larger outside diameter.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
oops
while I was correct with the general plan I missed the elevation constraint
DITTO STEVE
cut the horizontal and recenter the vertical to be 12" from FINISHED WALL (not baseboard if any)
'guesstimate' of actual working time:
a) measure, cut, and 'rough in' = 1.25 hour
b) cut riser stub and install flange and toilet = 1.5 hour
total = 3-3.5 hours x 'the going rate' + material + any 'call charges'
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
Edited 2 times.
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