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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
IMO:
use a rigid metallic riser / supply to a metal shank
yes, Fluidmaster makes a metallic shank fill valve - 45B
from our sponsor:
"...with the added strength of a brass shank which reduces the chance of cracking."
(it does cost a whopping $12.59)
supplies (less 'shank nut')
? more costly ? ! not after a blow-out of the junk !
ps. the supply tubes are annealed copper, bendable by hand, plated/finished, and available as separate items EVEN AT THE BIG BOX STORES
However, they require 'some' skill to install and about 5-7 minutes per fixture more time.
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
I would trust an all plastic valve over one that attaches brass to plastic.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
until the shank is over-torqued and snaps 'down the road'
see post below
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
If it was installed correctly it wouldn't be over torqued. By the poster's description, the fill valve broke off inside the tank. At no point in the realm of possibility should a fill valve be able to be tightened to the point that the plastic valve inside the tank is damaged before plastic threads give way.
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Author:
m & m (MD)
When you add chloramines to the mix, the brass shank is my preference. I've seen the riser inside the tank break due to choramines and cause massive flooding; taking the plastic out of the shank can only be a plus. I use a chrome toilet supply with the rubber cone piece.
[www.hodesco.com]
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
m & m
EXCELLENT
best of both worlds
ps. never had occasion to see the rubber nosed type
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Probably a straight tube with a "cone" washer.
I have been using the plastic shank FM valves for DECADES and have had so few crack on the shank that it is not even a consideration, (and those were not any that I had installed anyway).
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
NOT a straight tube with a cone washer!
A 'formed' tube with an integral washer
actually check link: [www.hodesco.com]
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
My 'issue' with the 'modern' plastic is comparable to the 'modern' electrical 'junk'.
Once upon a time (and still among us in smaller numbers) existed skilled tradesmen who took care and pride and understood how and why things 'went together'.
When the mfgrs. started making lower quality products with virtually no margin for error they could 'compensate' and still assemble a decent job.
eg. 'newer' electric receptacles with 'spring loaded' direct wire inserts - the real electricians used the screw terminals instead - the 'shoemakers' continued using the direct wire inserts as they would overtorque the screws on the (now cheaper) plastic and snap the receptacle ~ no margin for error
eg. plastic shanks on fixtures - same scenario - except that there is no circuit breaker to protect the end user ~ again, no margin for error
To make it worse, since the new stuff does not require accurate measuring or 'specialty tools' the need for actual tradesmen has declined, opening the door to DIYs and 'never stop improving' and you, too, can have 5 bedrooms and 3.5 baths ~ instead of 1 or1.5 baths lasting 30-40 years before remodeling is necessary.
If one 'buys into' {never stop improving} as opposed to build it once and use it a lifetime then one must accept the resulting lifestyle of flooding and replacement as a routine lifestyle.
...rant over
ps. I recently (10 yrs. ago) bought a 1991 3 BR / 2 bath 'stick built' home in coastal S.C. ~ I juuuuust finished bringing it up to minimum good practice standards.
cost me almost 1000 hours of labor and about $3000 material
If built originally to good practice as opposed to minimum code I 'guesstimate' it would have been an additional $1500 total INCLUDING labor ~ about 1-2% of sale price more to have it done right
pps. This is what 'got me going':
The dishwasher overflowed (no sweat, stuff happens).
Removed 22 year old 'top-o-the-line' domestic brand - rather, TRIED to remove and found that the cabinets and the dish washer had been set and installed onto the subfloor BEFORE the (multiple layers) of finished floor were installed AROUND them resulting a) trapping the dish washer AND b) hiding the slow leak and destroying the cabinets and the sub floor.
Never thought to inspect cabinet installation as the kitchen had a brand new Corian counter top when I bought.
Since the labor used to install the finished flooring was so cheap (imported labor) it was cost effective for the contractor to cut around all the cabinets to save money on material.
The above installation is code compliant but surely not good practice.
However, since one 'never stops improving', what is the issue to the modern consumer who knows not better 'good practice' workmanship?
for the novices among us:
best practice: floor first then cabinets on legs for cleaning and small leak visibility
good practice: floor first then cabinets
code: set cabinets on subfloor and install finished floor AROUND them
pps. a dishwasher 'may' be shoehorned into position by removing the insulation batting if 1/4 ply and vinyl were used for flooring with standard cabinets on the subfloor, but, ? will the dishwasher be 'pulled' and the old flooring removed when new flooring is installed ? ~ you think so, just look at the abortions re: toilets (which should have been set onto 40-60 year tile in the first place)
enough - I'm sure y'all get my point
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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