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Author:
cvfarm (CA)
Hello there. While adding a regulator to my PVC irrigation valve manifold I noticed that the shut-off valve in the meter box does not completely shut off all the flow. There is still a trickle that is enough to create pressure within just 30 seconds or so. ( I stuffed bread into the pipe to stop the flow but within just about 30 seconds the pressure pushed the bread-plug out of the pipe. Good thing for blue glue that works in wet conditions)
However, my next plumbing project involves installing a T in the copper section of the mainline, near the water meter. I want to install the T only a few feet from the meter box so that I can run a main to the back of the property. I dont think I can use the bread trick to stop the flow long enough to solder all 4 joints and I know there cannot be any water present when soldering.
So, is there any way to achieve this with the current situation? Is it the responsibility of the purveyor to replace the meter or shut off valve so that I can do this work with a dry pipe? I thought about just attempting to install a shut-off valve in front of where the T will be installed but I dont think I could even hold off the water long enough for 1 joint to be soldered. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks RG
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Author:
Doug E. (CA)
look up "Jet Swet"
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Or a gator bite valve.
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Author:
sum (FL)
I am curious as well if the pros can suggest a solution for this.
I ran into this same problem twice in the last few years at different properties.
First one was a condo and the shutoff to an individual unit needed replacing. I turned the main curb meter off and it didn't shutoff completely, but it was VERY SLOW. So I used a shop vac and sucked as much water as possible from it, which then gave me enough time to solder one end of a shutoff valve to it before water came back up high enough to interfere.
The second one was prior to that another property I bought, and it was filling up faster then I can solder. I think it was a 3/4" copper pipe, I actually tried to disconnect at the meter side, it was a threaded joint, but it was so rusted and seized, and not being a pro I didn't dare mess with it too much, so I cheated. Instead of a ball valve with sweat connections I bought one with threaded connections. Into the female threaded end I put in a brass fitting where one side is a male threaded connection, the other end is a compression connection. Then I connect the compression connection to the copper pipe with the water still bleeding, and soldered the rest of it.
Edited 3 times.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
I have a different brand, but same basic tool [www.plumbingsupply.com] you can feed this through a ball valve and make your connection, then remove it. They don't cost much considering the headache it can save you.
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Author:
m & m (MD)
"Instantly stops the flow of residual water in pipes"
Neither of the above tools will work against pressure. I would try breaking the union at the meter and relieving pressure there.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
With 30 seconds before water tries to push through, you can sweat on a ball valve if it is all cleaned and fluxed up properly
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