Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and am hoping I could get some tips on using a 65R-TC threader. Any time I've wanted to replace or modify steam pipes I've had a difficult time getting black pipe threaded to what I wanted especially when dealing with close tolerances so I finally gave up and bought a quality pipe vice, threader and some Ridgid Endura-clear oil.

Since I've never threaded pipe before, I'm hoping some seasoned members could give me some tips to using this tool.

Right now, this is my understanding.

Unscrew the tool holder until it clears the two dowels, line the two dowels into the holes that align with the size pipe I'm threading, screw the tool holder back down until it lines up with the standard marks (or slightly above or below depending on what I want).

Adjust the rear ring to the size pipe I'm working with.

Set the die open / closed lever to closed.

Slide onto pipe until the pipe is basically in the dies, close lever that locks tool holder onto pipe.

Get some quality oil on the pipe and dies and start threading?

I've watched videos of guys using other threaders where they appear to have to put a lot of pressure against the die to get it to start threading initially. Is this the case with the 65R?



Thank you for your time!

use lots, repeat LOTS, of oil

since the dies are new, begin exactly on the mark - you will need to tighten as the dies wear

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

Hi bernabeu, thanks for replying.


I noticed one of the jaws for the tool holder has a set screw in it. I'm assuming this is for crooked / drip threads?

That could come in handy especially on the short run I'm doing as it's hard to get any pitch on the pipe as it's only 25" long so not much flex.

I seldom used my 65-RC die, usually an RA which has a "bolt" to tighten it on the pipe. Once you close the cam on yours it should feed itself on to the pipe without pushing it. If it is so loose you have to push it, then it is NOT tight enough to keep from slipping, which will affect the thread.



Edited 1 times.

Hi hj,

I've heard others mention they prefer the 65R-C over the 65R-TC but no one has specifically said why?

The cam lock is a bit easier to operate than the "T" bolt, and since the guide operates concentrically there is less chance of getting a "crooked" thread, but the crooked thread ability is why I prefer the RA which is an older version of the RC.

Ah,

Maybe I'm confusing the models but mine has the cam lock and I believe is a "TC" where the T handle one is just a "C".

What is the set screw for in one of the jaws of the cam lock one? I assumed that was to do crooked threads or is it an actual tightness adjustment?

This is the version I have.
[www.ridgid.com]#



Edited 2 times.

sorry - I answered too quick - I have not used a 'receding' stock on smaller than 4"

still need LOTS of oil, but, should not need 'push to start'

as far as crooked threads: not designed to do, even tho older models 'may' be enabled

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

The lever operated "cam lock" is ALWAYS concentric, unless you use the screw to alter it. With the RC and RA models you just did not turn the ring to the exact pipe size and the T bolt compensated for it.

Looks like the TC "true center" version doesn't have a set screw but a screw which holds a spring compressed in one jaw. I guess that jaw is spring loaded to make up for tolerances between pipes.

So, looks like only the non-TC version can do what Ridgid calls "drip threads" aka crooked threads.


Does anyone know what the reason behind a "receding threader" is? Are they easier to use manually? I ask because I noticed most pipe threaders are not the receding type and then bernabeu mentioned only using them on 4" and larger so it has me curious. I understand how it works, just curious why a few are receding and most are not.



Edited 2 times.

A receding die threader is about the only one you would want to use if you do not have a power vise to turn the pipe into a "block die". My dad used to tell me about using LONG pipe handles to rotate the dies before they developed the ratchet ones, and even they take a 600# gorilla or a long handle to make a thread by hand. Receding dies, start out 'hard' but get easier as the dies open up when they get past the starting threads. Solid dies just get harder and harder as you make the thread longer.

I have just bought a Ridgit 65A threader because an excavator bent our Bore's Liner pipe to about 30º of angle. I have never threaded a large (for me at least) 2" pipe before.

The tool seems to have all the bits in place and the Dies cutting edges seem sharp to the touch. Have been trying to find out if replacements are still available for this older model of tool but Xmas has closed all suppliers down here in NZ which is now in our summer Christmas holiday season & bugger all people think of work, for about a month.
Does anyone know if the Dies are still available?

In the above comments and on Youtube, lots of oil is used, which I can understand but what hasn't been mentioned is anything about the actual size of the Dies.
The actual cutting face of the Die, seems to me, so short in cutting width, compared to all other Dies I have in other Taps & Dies sets. All my other sets are made in GB or Japan. eg. smaller 1/2" to 1 1/4" BSP, or Whit or metric & UNF

Would anyone have any explaination why that would be?

Happy New Year to all of ewes &
Cheers.

Because of less number of actual cutting edges, will I be in for major effort expeniture when I get to use this tool, or will that cause the effort to be lessor than a wider cutting edge?

The 2" pipe which is bent, I will cut off with an large angle grinder & cut off disc.
The straight bit of tubing sticking up up about a foot in the hole in the ground. This exposed, foot high bit of 2" pipe, is the piece of pipe which I intend to cut a thread into The hole is about 5 ft deep hole.