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Author:
sum (FL)
Been busy lately on another project finally is shifting my attention back to this property.
This is kind of a continuation of this older thread:
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but to recap, this is a common kitchen wall between two units in a duplex. The sink on the other side of this wall was moved to an island, and that's why there is no need to provide drain or supply access to the other side.
Here is a BEFORE PICTURE of the drain and supply lines.
'
Here is an AFTER PICTURE of the drain. I also cleaned up all the electrical mess.
Now I need to clean up the supply lines. The left most 3/4" manifold is cold (for both units - 1 meter), the 1/2" to it's right is the hot for this unit, and the rightmost manifold is the hot for the other unit which I believe was moved to the island. The horizontal line to the right is a supply for a bar to the far right which I have now demolished so this line will be deleted.
So I want to simplify all this a bit, and put the lines somewhere I can strap and secure. With the drain line there I can't add wood blocking. So here is what I am thinking. Blue is the new cold and red the new hot. Both stub outs will be at the stud, so one at the top one at the bottom. Is this OK? I don't have to do left hot right cold correct?
Also is it OK to get rid of all the old air chambers?
As to the manifold to the right, do I need to get rid of that short vertical piece? Somewhere I read that this is dead water and will cause bacteria buildup?
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
sum (FL)
Wow just left the bug box store. A 3/4" copper cap is $1 but a 3/4" copper plug is over $5, why such a big difference?
Also is it better to pipe in air chambers?
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
Use mechanical arrestors if you have ice machines, dishwashers, or other quick closing valves close by.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Because they make and sell a "jillion" caps for every plug they make and sell. Your existing piping is "self supporting' so you don't NEED to revise it to strap it, but if you do you can put the lines anyway you want them, even cold on the left and hot on the right if that works out better for the installation.
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Author:
sum (FL)
I thought about using hammer arrestors but those need to be accessible right? If I close up the wall cavity with sheetrock then the cabinet back those will not be accessible anymore.
Anyways I end up putting a short piece of 3/4" pipe to act like an air chamber. I don't think they would be too effective but oh well. It's all redone now. I was able to lower both the hot and cold so that they are below the electrical box.
So the hot supply is above and cold supply below. I can strap both to the stud. Does this look OK?
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Author:
sum (FL)
I had trouble when soldering the cap.
I soldered everything from low to high and the last piece to solder in was the cap on top.
I cleaned, fluxed and put it on, when I put the torch on it after heating it a bit the cap flew off the pipe! I am guessing the expanded air from the heat had no where to go but to push the cap off the top? I finally got it working but what is the correct approach when dealing with this? The cap wouldn't stay put!
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Author:
steve (CA)
Open the angle stop/don't screw cap on stub out. I heat the cap at the closed end(not the side) and if it pops up, I push it back and keep heating.
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Author:
sum (FL)
steve, the cap that really gave me a hard time is the one to the far right.
I cut open the top with a tubing cutter just to see which line it was from - UNIT A cold, UNIT A hot, UNIT B cold or UNIT B hot. When I tried to solder a new cap on I couldn't and there is not another opening for relieve in this case.
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Author:
steve_g (CA)
Worst case, solder on a female adaptor and screw in a brass plug.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
Or heat the pipe before sliding the cap on perhaps. I haven't had that particular problem before. You could always open the hot and cold on a nearby faucet and use a shop vac and a rag to such the water out of the pipe. It won't remove all the water, but it should remove enough that air can flow freely to the open faucet. Also, make sure to put nail strike plates on your studs before putting the drywall back up.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Yes, the only thing to remember, when the hot and cold are not oriented the common way, is which is hot and which is cold. I used to spray red paint on the hot stub as a clue.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
try soldering it first so the air can escape through the other joints. I once had to remove a cap from a valved off stub at a restaurant. Over the years the valve had leaked a little water into the stub. I heated it, and heated it, and finally the high pressure steam blew it off. When it came off a waitress had just walked past and it would have "branded" her if it had hit her leg.
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Author:
sum (FL)
The manifold to the right was the one I had a problem with.
I heated it to remove the cap so I can see which shutoff (unit A or and whether hot or cold. When I heated it up to try to remove the cap, air was hissing out of it but it will not come off easy due to it being full of water. I end up cutting it off and soldering in a new cap. When soldering the new cap the hot air blew the cap off a few feet in the air.
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