I had a PVC flange mounted inside a 4” waste pipe in a concrete foundation that was cracked. I watched every video I could and successfully removed the old flange. I intended to replace it with a Sioux Chief PVC/stainless flange but on cementing and inserting it the flange sat about ½ inch high on one side and I couldn’t get it level. I quickly removed it before the cement set. The drainpipe is not plumb with a level. Next I inserted a Sioux Chief push tight gasketed flange in to the top of the tile floor and using tapcons set it tight. After setting a new toilet with wax ring, I believe the outlet horn is lightly riding on the flange. I placed a few shims near the back on each side and the toilet is steady and works as it should, but I am still nervous about it touching the flange. A co-worker suggested I get rid of the PVC flange and just screw a Sioux Chief stainless “Ringer” to the foundation, set a wax ring, and discharge directly into the waste pipe. Any thoughts or suggestions from the experts?

I prefer the stainless or brass rings for concrete installations. I use 2" nail drive concrete anchors to put them down with. I line up the slots for the bolts and mark one hole and drill it. Slide the anchor in for positioning, and mark a second hole. I drill straight through the holes on the flange when I can, and set a second anchor across from the first. After that, I drill the rest of the holes straight through the flange, then remove the flange and clean and prep the floor with acetone to remove any possible oil. Next I put a heavy bead of silicone around the outside edge of the pipe and across the bolt holes, but keep the excess out of the bolt slots. Set the flange down on the silicone and press it in, then slide all the anchors into place. I have found that a 5/16 or so deep socket works well to set the anchors all the way down before driving the pin. Drive the pins on the anchors, then use a finger to smooth away any excess silicone that went to the inside of the pipe. I usually wipe the excess on the anchor heads for an extra waterproofing coat. Let this dry for a few hours according to the directions on the silicone, and then set the toilet as normal. It should sit down tight, and only need shims if the floor isn't flat. I usually silicone the toilet to the floor as well, just to keep it from moving if someone larger uses it. Yeah, I know it is overkill, but I don't care to pull toilets, so I put them down as securely as possible when I set them in the first place.

i have never seen the horn of a toilet contact the flange.. the recess in the flange is plenty big enough. if the toilet is set slightly to the side or front or rear, the bolts will not line up with the holes in the toilet.
leave it alone...

Packy, the Push Tite flange has a shallow cup before leading into the tailpiece of the flange. Were it a true 4/3 flange I agree that the horn could't touch, but since the tailpiece is somewhat smaller in size, it is less than the full diameter of the toilet horn. The horn on the cicumference of the Toto Drake isn't recessed and is level with the base of toilet. I'm just considering the stainless steel ring idea, since the toilet would be tightly bolted to the floor and would have the full benefit of discharging into the 4 inch pipe with no interference. But, I may be completely wrong with the notion.

Many years ago, I set a basement toilet without setting a flange first. Been too long ago that I forget the reasons. I used this waxless gasket with interior and exterior seals (O rings) which made for a pipe-to-horn watertite/gastite seal. I set concrete anchors for lugging the toilet.





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