Question about bath overflow drain orientation

I had to rip out subfloor to repair wood rot and mold. In the process I relocated the tub and discovered the builder had "notched" a joist cross block to install the tub waste drain.

My question - is there any reason I cannot change the orientation of the T connector that joins the overflow to the shoe? Instead of it draining vertically have it oriented with the shoe?

Instead of

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Can I reorient it to be

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sure can,, use a 'shoe outlet' tub drain. gerber makes a good one.

If I understand your question correctly, you would need a different "shoe", one that discharges out the bottom. To do that, you need a "toe outlet" waste, similar to the Watco "green" waste.

Thank you for the verbiage. That allowed me to do a better search. The term I was looking for was a rear outlet waste drain. My original house builder butchered a cripple stud to install the original slip joint (ugh) drain. With a rear outlet I can reposition the P trap to fix this and then rpair the cripple stud. I plan on using a PVC waste instead of the cheap sink drain slip joint waste drain used before.

Is it good practice to use the flexible or rubber transition joint / reducer? I am well aware that I may (may? HAH! more like I know) be a hair off when have to cut the PVC.

I don't think I can install a shoe outlet and maintain the correct slope.

Now off to the local plumbing supply.








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My apologies to previous posters. It would have been smarter to just post the issue and let you suggest a solution. My tub drain exits directly over a crippled stud. The original builder butchered a cripple stud to install the p trap. I would like fix this as it gives me the heebie jeebies looking at it the . even though it is parallel to and only 6 inches from the garage wall that the main joists rests on it bugs me.

They used a standard waste drain, spliced it with a slip joint to get the height for the tub (21 inches) with a reducer coupling on the bottom to attach to the p trap. As you can see the P trap has a bend in it to position it directly under the waste drain. They butchered the stud to do this.

suggestions? 45 just beneath the overflow and another 45 into the repositioned P trap, as well as a pvc coupling to extend the shoe? rear shoe drain? s\Seems like either one would allow me to minimize the hole in the sistered crippled stud to a 1 1/2 =2 inch hole at the top then drop into the repositioned Ptrap?
I'm not sure I can maintain the proper slope if I use a shoe exit drain.

Get a gerber roman tub drain to replace your existing drain. [www.gerberonline.com]
The cripple stud you refer to doesn't provide any real structural support as is. If you were replacing it, you could put a new 2by in next to the old one from below. This would make it stronger, and the difference of placement would only make a difference in hanging the sheetrock below, and you need to have something to screw to anyhow for a good repair. You are better off leaving the old pvc and replumbing just the tub waste and overflow.

KCroto,

The tub was moved back and over 1/2 inch to install it against the studs. Previous builder sheet rocked the room, installed the tub against the sheetrock and tiled. Thus the eyed to move and redo ( rot and mold).

I have test fitted a a generic PVC overflow prior to purchasing a new one. Due to moving the tub, the angles will not match. There is a little over a half inch offset, and the vertical from the shoe to the p trap is not enough to install a flexible coupling, or use a elbow of some type (22, 45 or 60?). If the original p trap did not have that small angle elbow on top, it could be done.

Then again I am a amateur. If this wasn't a emergency job on low funds, I would hire a plumber.



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open up the floor (or ceiling below) a little more and get to the rest of the drain. you can cut some out or replace with new pipe as needed to reposition.

As I dig deeper and deeper, I may have to let this sit and live on one shower for everyone in the house until I can afford a plumber.

Here is a pic of the entire system now that I have lifted the whole corner. Bathtub drain lower right, shower drain middle left, stack and drain on the right. Yes I know I'm stating the obvious to you.

The shower drain needs to be moved 0.5 inch diagonally towards the wall corner at the upper mid left. the entire shower drain is all adaptors from the sanitary t to the vertical drain on the P trap. Is there a proper way to do it short of cutting out the 4 way sanitary t (double t?) and starting completely over? I can think of several ways to jury rigg it which I won't do.

You might be able to use a 22 and a street 22 to make an close fit offset.



The picture is just so you can visualize it, it isn't a guide. in a vertical line, you can still stay vertical as long as you don't bend more than 45 degrees to the plane, so it should be fine, but I don't know if 22's will only get you a half inch. it is easier to get more distance than less with plastic fittings.

I was thinking along those lines. Just wasn't sure if that was allowed. A few mock ups should tell me.

It will be a lot more than a 1/2", however. Cutting the trap off and then using a Ram-Bit to remove the pipe section from the fitting, then installing a new "P" trap is the best way. depending on how it comes out dimension wise, you may have to reverse the trap's outlet street elbow. Insert the spigot end into the 45, then use a short piece of pipe between the other end, which will be pointing downward, and the trap inlet.



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Ram-Bit. That's a interesting idea. Many times I have thought a tool like that would be nice. Did not know they actually made one.

There are several variations of it, but the Ram-Bit is probably the easiest to find and least expensive. Do a web search for "fitting saver" for some of the other versions.

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