I was replacing a pvc fitting downstream of this (cast/galvanized?) 45.My kitchen sink is above. While pushing and pulling I loosened the adapter that was previously in it and it turned. So I cut the pipe, inserted a new adapter and connected to the rest of the drain with a shielded coupling.

I noticed the interior of the ell was very rusted, I think the hole was even smaller than it should but I was not sure what I was looking at.

So if my repair leaks or if the ell clogs, what would be the correct way to replace this?
How do you remove the ell? There is limited space as this is in a sillplate of the basement?

The sink appears to drain great, should I be concerned?

if that goes up insude the outside wall (which it probably does), the only way to replace it is to rip open the wall.
it all should last a good long time.
just be prepared to snake the iron pipe every few years.

quote; The sink appears to drain great, should I be concerned?

Probably not. That is a drainage elbow so the interior WILL be smaller than you think it should be, because it is the same size as the INTERIOR of the pipe attached to it. And cast iron it ALWAYS rusty.

Can you tell for sure from the photo that its cast iron?

If you look close the pipe is greyish and I believe it has threads.

Where if its cast iron it would be a leaded joint correct? Or does it appear that 45 can be wrenched off?

It is a Durham fitting - threaded cast iron - designed for drains.

the pipe is galvanized and the fittings are cast iron.
the chances of wrenching off a fitting that old are slim to none..
if you can wedge something behind the fitting and give it a good couple of whacks with a heavy hammer, you can crack the fitting and remove it easily.

if you can wedge something behind the fitting and give it a good couple of whacks with a heavy hammer, you can crack the fitting and remove it easily.

Would it just crack apart and be able to be pulled off the threads of the pipe?

Do I have to be concerned that I damage the threads of the pipe while hitting it with a hammer?

If the pipe gets damaged, then its a major ordeal to open a wall behind the kitchen sink I assume.

EDIT: Now that I think of it, if the threads of the pipe are damaged it wouldn't matter as a shielded coupling would be used to connect with? Is that correct? So when the fitting is cracked, how is it removed from the pipe?



Edited 1 times.

If you have sufficient steel 'backing' behind the fitting (maybe a wood splitting wedge, etc.), you won't distort the threads. The fitting will crack lengthwise on one or both of the hubs and will peel away like an orange skin. Wear eye protection.

Or it will transfer force up the wall and break out the backsplash behind the sink.

More thinking (overthinking?)....

Once the elbow is broken out, I still would have to cut the galvanized back in order to get the shielded coupling on? My thinking is I cannot add length to the vertical pipe otherwise I lose my slope.

Does that make any sense?
Perhaps different material than shielded coupling then in order to make that 45 in the same place?

if the male threads are in good shape just put the shielded coupling over the threads.
usually if the threads are corroded only the first one or two are bad. so you would only have to cut them off leaving the rest..

If I put the sheiled coupling over the threads (same style as the one in the photo) how do I make the 45 in order not to effect my slope. Thinking being the vertical portion will now be longer in order to accommodate full insertion into the coupling and glueing a new 45.

I think letting a sleeping dog lie until you are ready to replace from the kitchen sink downward would be a better option. You asked 'if the repair leaks or the ell clogs'. If it clogs, snake the drain, if it leaks, then worry about fixing it. Don't be that guy that just has to tinker with something until it quits working.

1. It is definitely cast iron, AND drainage, (which is made differently than "water fittings".
2. The pipe is galvanized
3. It is NOT leaded, it is screwed.

quote; , you can crack the fitting and remove it easily.


But DO NOT "crack it off" until you figure out HOW you are going to get a new one screwed on.

quote; Or it will transfer force up the wall and break out the backsplash behind the sink.

Now that's something I would like to see happen, EVER.

IF you remove THAT 45, you will open a "can of worms" that may require a major operation to put it back together. I would leave it alone until it creates an insurmountable problem, which may NEVER happen.

That's an easy question to answer. You CAN'T.

quote; It is a Durham fitting

Technically correct. We just never used the term "Durham" until it was 3" or larger.

Putting a wedge behind the pipe and hitting it hard enough to break it? Are you familiar with class 1 levers?