I have a single check valve in my well water line. It is located after the water line enters my basement and before my pressure tank. Should this be sufficient, or is it customary to have a check valve immediately above the well pump too? If only one valve is customary, which location is preferred?

Unless it was removed at the time of installation, your pump has an integral check valve in it now.

Yep. M&M is right, there's usually a check at the foot (pump). That plus the one in your house makes 2. Never seen one at the well head. Makes more sense to have it inside before the pressure tank.

Okay, thanks, however ...

This all started after a new Goulds 5GS07412 pump was installed and large amounts of air appeared in my system (airation and faucet "belching" ). After investigation: When my pump cycles off, I can hear water in the well column being drawn down by gravity, sucking a lot of air into the system. So, I am now thinking, per your input, that the pump's check valve has failed.

Regarding the air leak (FYI, the well hose itself was pressure tested.) I replaced the o-ring on the pitless adapter (at well head). That fixed the belching for several days (minor airation persisted, but I hadn't gotten around to bleeding the water treatment system) but it's now back, worse.

So, am I on the right track here (investigate a failed pump check valve AND find the source of the air leak), or am I missing something? THANKS AGAIN!



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Following from website concerning Gould Pump 5GS07412 --------

"These pumps REQUIRE a separate field-installed external check-valve to prevent backflow."

The pump also has a built in foot/check valve.

OP --- "Regarding the air leak (FYI, the well hose itself was pressure tested.)"

Not sure what has/has not been tested. Did the test include the connection at the pump? Apparently you have a air leak somewhere at/between the pump and the external check-valve. (Assume external check valve could hold a leak between it and the tank/house piping.) Of course there should be no source to allow air to enter on either side of the external check valve. IE defective external check valve and house plumbing valves, toilet fill valve etc.

Since this problem started with the new installation of the Gould pump.

1. Check any and ALL assessable connections that may have been disturbed by pump installation
2. Especially properly repair any connection at the well head to rule out any leak at that point.
3. Replace external check valve if ANY doubt whatsoever that it is allowing back flow. (The Mfr specificity requires a operational external check valve.)
4. If problem not solved by above ----- last resort, your connection AT the pump would be suspect.

OP --- "I have a single check valve in my well water line. It is located after the water line enters my basement and before my pressure tank. Should this be sufficient, or is it customary to have a check valve immediately above the well pump too? If only one valve is customary, which location is preferred?"

My bronze external check valve has been installed inside close to the pressure tank for at least 30 years with no problem.
Not a well installer - Just a well user.

Wow, WC (and all) thanks for the feedback, research, etc! Great info and insights. My son and I spent an hour or so in the back yard today. We've determined that (as suggested) there's probably a leak in the pump/pipe juncture, or a hole in the well hose below the water table. Tomorrow we pull all 300' and check it out. FYI, the pump (with check valve) is new, AND I just replaced the external check valve in the basement (FUBAR, after 25 years of service). We are hopeful that once we solve the backflow problem in the well, air will stop being sucked into the system -- which we feel is occuring at the pitless adapter, in spite of replacing the o-ring. If that doesn't do it, we'll be getting out the shovels to replace the pitless adapter (arrgh). Thanks again and stay tuned.

Before you pull all 300'-- first shut down the power, then pull the pitless up to the top of the casing and rest it on the side edge of the casing. Observe the water column inside the pitless- it should remain level with the bottom of the pitless opening. Have some water handy nearby. If the water level drops, replenish it again to the top of the pipe and observe. This is usually all that is required to determine if the drop pipe/pump/fittings are water-tight. Good luck.

M&M: Thanks for the suggestion. We had determined that the water was dropping down the well pipe, so we pulled 'er this morning anyway.

Culprit: The internal check valve on the new Goulds pump wasn't checking. After filling the entire well hose with water (sucked out of the handy pond in our back yard) water just flows back out of the pump intake.

All other fittings seemed sound. So, I've decided to install an external check valve just below the pitless adapter (the presumed source of the air leak) and deal with the pump's installer/manufacturer later.

Arrrgh...



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Dip a straw into a glass of water. Put your finger over the top hole, and lift it out. Now, what was the problem?