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Author:
a6041653 (FL)
I had a leak but never saw any water. After much "Leak Detection", I've capped off the cold water line inside the garage wall behind the bathroom toilet & vanity, which stopped the leak. I now have water every where in the house except no cold water to the laundry room sink, washing machine & spigot outside of laundry room.
It appears, the best course of action is to re-pipe/re-route from where I capped off in the garage to a point above the old leak but below the sink, washing machine & spigot. That said, I'd appreciate your input on how you'd go about doing so & what you'd use for new piping?
Thanks!
Laundry room with bathroom toilet & vanity
Spigot outside laundry room
Cold water line capped off inside garage wall behind bathroom toilet & vanity.
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Author:
m & m (MD)
BIG 'IF'....but....if you can locate the other end of the terminated underslab copper tube, you MAY be able to cut it there as well and pull the copper out and pass PEX thru. That is, IF the sleeve emerging out of the concrete encases the copper tube all the way to the other end (which it should, if it was done properly).
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Author:
hj (AZ)
And if you can get a crane in there to use to pull the copper out. My solution would have been to call my homeowner's insurance company to cover the costs of fixing the leak.
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Author:
a6041653 (FL)
Quote
BIG 'IF'....but....if you can locate the other end of the terminated underslab copper tube, you MAY be able to cut it there as well and pull the copper out and pass PEX thru. That is, IF the sleeve emerging out of the concrete encases the copper tube all the way to the other end (which it should, if it was done properly).
Thanks!
It's been interesting getting proposals from licensed plumbers...1st thing I noticed is that none want to pull a permit for the job. 2nd thing I noticed is none of the proposals include patching walls, floors and/or concrete block that they break open. 3rd thing I noticed is that none recommended the same way (or need) to locate the other end of the terminated underslab copper pipe.
For example; One plumber wants to dig a large hole outside by the spigot all the way down past the slab and break out a couple of concrete blocks to locate it.
A second plumber proposed to:"...GO IN THE BATHROOM AND JACKHAMMER OUT THE CONCRETE AROUND THE EXISTING COLD WATER SUPPLY MANIFOLD. WE WILL LOCATE A PLACE ABOVE GROUND IN THE WALL TO TIE ONTO AND DRILL A HOLE THROUGH THE EXTERIOR WALL." What am I missing here? Why does he have to jack hammer out the concrete floor, if he's trying to locate a place above ground in the wall to tie into? Others merely state they will open up the drywall in the laundry room to try to locate it. That sounds better to me, I mean don't I ultimately have to just locate a point above the old leak but below the sink, washing machine & spigot to cut into?
As for the repair itself, the re-route as well as the new piping to be run are also different from one plumber to the next...A several of plumbers want to drill a hole low to the ground through the garage wall to the outside and run a new line toward the spigot then drill another hole into the laundry room from the outside to cut into. However, they differ on whether to bury it or leave it exposed. While others want the new piping to be run up the garage wall and go up and over the bathroom ceiling then back down the laundry room wall by the sink to cut in.
Then there's PEX...Never heard of it before this but now that I've done a little research, I think I'll stick with copper, for now.
I'd greatly appreciate feedback on how these proposed methods and how you would go about this repair?
Thanks
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
Is it a single story home with an attic?
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Author:
a6041653 (FL)
It's a 2 story home but where this laundry/bathroom is it's one story with an attic above.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
Re-connect where you capped with pex. Run the pex up into the attic and drop down in the wall behind the washer. Reconnect everything to the pex. It's going to involve some drywall removal and repair. But it can be kept to a minimum.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
As for the repairs, since I usually go through the homeowner's insurance company, they take care of the repairs, (plus locating the leak and accessing the pipe). You would pay for the actual pipe repair and your deductible. I am not sure what, if anything, they would pay for a "reroute".
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
I think in this case they would rather pay for the re-route than the repair. Maybe? This is one of those cases where you have to ask the right questions, because they will only answer the ones asked, and offer no help beyond.
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Author:
a6041653 (FL)
Quote
Re-connect where you capped with pex. Run the pex up into the attic and drop down in the wall behind the washer. Reconnect everything to the pex. It's going to involve some drywall removal and repair. But it can be kept to a minimum.
Thanks!
Actually, it took 5 licensed plumbers until I got such a proposal...The 5th one is also a building contractor so he's the only one offering an option to "patch up" anything he "opens". I haven't gotten the proposal yet but he's going to give me numbers in both PEX and copper.
I NOW understand there are different types of PEX i.e. Regular PEX & PEX-AL-PEX as well as different grades of PEX i.e. A, B & C. The last plumber gave me a piece of 1/2 inch "Uponor-PEX-a". I'm not sure if that's what he's going to put in the proposal but other than the PEX being 3/4 inch like my existing copper, what type would you use & why?
FWIW, there is no insurance involved; this is a self pay situation. ;(
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
I'll leave the question as to which type to the plumbers. I'm a homeowner, like yourself.Make sure whatever they put up there is insulated, or it will sweat "Like a pig, who knows he's dinner".
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Author:
a6041653 (FL)
Thanks!
Make sure the attic is insulated or the piping?
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
The piping in the attic.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
The 2 times I have done a reroute, the customer had to argue with the insurance company to get coverage.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
hj.....That's because they are taught to function as "mindless robots". We encounter them all day long. It usually starts while trying to get a cup of coffee in the morning. There is no way to pre-empt or avoid the stupidity. It is everywhere. No, I'm not describing a Twilight Zone episode. It is our reality.
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Author:
a6041653 (FL)
Reasons I'm almost glad no insurance is involved.
This re-route through the attic appears to be a viable solution. That said, if any pros could possibly shed some light on what I'm missing and/or what the plumbers might have been thinking who instead proposed "...dig a large hole outside by the spigot all the way down past the slab and break out a couple of concrete blocks..." OR "...JACKHAMMER OUT THE CONCRETE AROUND THE EXISTING COLD WATER SUPPLY MANIFOLD..."??
Also, How do you pros feel about PEX piping in general as well as which type would you use for this repair, if you would use PEX?
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