So after I replaced the shutoff valve to one side of the duplex, I opened the water in the laundry room (washing machine valve) and found the water pressure to be lower than expected. I then went back to the shutoff and used the hosebib there and it's the same. It's OK but it's just not as strong as the other side of the duplex.

One meter.

One side (unit A) the hosebib shoots out like a hydrant, the other (unit is much weaker.

When I replaced A's shutoff, I noticed the water line I was connecting to was a 1" PVC.

On B it's a 3/4" old galvanized.

So some time back, someone had changed the line leading to A into PVC.

I know B's line is probably badly corroded on the inside as well? May be some sediment buildup or whatever causing the lower pressure/flow?

I called in to the city, asked them if I wanted to replace the water line, how deep I need to dig the trench, they said 18".

However, my original galvanized line is less than 6" deep. Shouldn't I be able to run it as shallow as the original if it's a "replacement"?

Sure....They'll come out and fail it. Then you can dig it down another foot.Isn't most of Florida sand?



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Paul, yes it is florida sand.

however, 80% of the run is under an existing concrete walkway/driveway, with sections of it passes under planters. Those are raised planters.

So what I am saying is, the raised planters are 18" wide, and 24" tall. So if I dig down 24" from the top of the planters, the pipe is 6" below that, if I need to be 18", then I need to dig 42" deep.

I am hoping I can dig down to a manageable depth, then use the garden hose tunnel tool to advance past a stretch of concrete area, then pick it up on the next planter etc...having to go real deep makes it exponentially more difficult.

I guess my point is, I fully understand code says 18" deep for water line.

However, it does not make sense to me if I am not laying a new line but replacing an existing line. In other words, I am replacing a line from point A to point B. That line is 6" deep at point A, and 5" deep at point B. I need to go 18" below to run across and come back up.

Is it 18" below grade sum? The planters are not grade. I hear what you're saying, and sympathize with you, but an inspector probably won't. At 6", you hit it with a shovel too easily.At 18", with caution tape at 6", you have a chance.

Paul yes it's 18" below grade (code wise). Therefore that translates into 42" below the top of those narrow planters. That makes it really difficult.

Here is the picture of the front of the duplex.



I have excavated right where you see the window to the right, and right at the front edge of the building, down 6" is the galvanized line. The shutoff is all the way to the other side (left) and wrapped around another 2'. I am 99% sure the line follows the edge of the building.

It's all stamp concrete in the front, but the sections of the planters in the middle is raised.

I have done one of those garden hose thing before, they have a nozzle thing you attach to the front side of a PVC pipe, then the back side of the PVC you attach a garden hose, you turn the water on, then push/pull and since it's mostly sand, it will allow the pipe to advance. I have done one across a concrete driveway before and it worked pretty good. I think with the raised planter being so narrow, it's going to be tricky since I can't squeeze myself to be inside the planter and feeding/gluing the pipes.



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Never mind.

My brain has turned into jello.

I don't need to follow the exact path of the original pipe. Since there is a planter at grade in front of the raised planter, I could offset the pipe out a bit along that stretch instead of messing with the raised planter, and just leave the old pipe as abandoned.

It is 18" below the SURFACE, the idea being that if you were to RotoTill the ground it would be below the machine's depth. Codes are not written with exceptions for driveways, planters, etc.

What do those planters have to do with it? You are not running the pipe under them are you? Dig an 18" trench and put the water line in it.

hj, the existing galvanized line run under the planter, actually 6" or so below the BOTTOM of the planter.

I was thinking I need to dig 18" below the bottom of the planter, which means 40" or so below the top of the planter.

I wanted to do this WITHOUT tearing up the concrete driveway walkway, so I have to use the hose flush approach.

quote; was thinking I need to dig 18" below the bottom of the planter, which means 40" or so below the top of the planter.

believe me, I would find a different route before I would install the line under an existing planter, regardless of the depth of the trench.