I am attempting to install a toilet flange (basement installation), but am finding it nearly impossible to do so.

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This is information from my previous post about 6 months ago (yes, it's been sitting unfixed for that long!)

Our toilet was rocking and the seal finally broke and started to leak. I took it apart and found that it had been done completely incorrectly. The flange was installed above the level of the floor by about 1/4", there were shims underneath the toilet, and the flange was not anchored to the floor. The pipe is 3" diameter ABS and cut even with the top of the tile. I was able to remove the old flange, Which was ABS and fit inside the 3" pipe. (never had a problem with clogs in several years). The ABS goes straight down for at least 8" before turning. This is a basement installation with tile, over a layer of self leveling concrete of unknown thickness (very brittle), over the concrete foundation.



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new information:

The concrete goes right up to the pipe. I was able to cut the top of pipe down a bit and chip the tile back enough to get the flange to fit flat onto the finished tile floor so it does not stick up.

The problem I am having is with the tile. It is the hardest stuff I have ever seen. It destroyed a tile bit, then destroyed a Tapcon bit, even when using a hammer drill. Nothing could get through it. Finally bought a diamond bit and had my daughter spray water as I drilled with the cordless drill, and was able to get through the tile (with a lot of effort).

I still have 2 problems. 1. The holes came out slightly off, so only 2 of the 4 line up. That stuff was just so hard, I will probably have to drill new holes. How can I keep them spot on? Should I try drilling through the holes in the flange or drill with the flange removed? I am afraid if I try drilling with the flange in place I will ruin it. (it took 5 or 6 minutes of drilling with the diamond bit to get through the tile). And if I do drill with the flange in place, I still don't know how to keep it from moving (it is one of those type that have a rotating collar)

2. I have NO IDEA how to actually attach the flange to the floor. The tile is so impossibly hard, the Tapcon screws went down about 1/4" and completely jammed up. They can't get a grip into the tile. Can anyone recommend any product that I could use to anchor this down? (this is thick tile about 5/16" thick over self leveling concrete over the regular basement concrete). What size holes should I drill?

Thank you. I appreciate any help.

Fellow diyer here.

My understanding is the flange is supposed to sit OVER your tiles, not flushed with it, so the work you did to make it flushed was a waste. Now you might need to get a spacer to put it back higher to where its supposed to be.

I wouldn't worry too much about having the Tapcon "grip" the tiles. You can drill an oversized hole in the tile just use longer Tapcon screws to get it to go into the concrete below.

The flange does fit flat on top of the finished tile floor. I had to cut the pipe down about 1/8" to make it fit flat on the floor, otherwise it would have stuck up above the floor.

The flange has an area underneath it that is lower than the lip of the flange (that's why I had to slightly cut the pipe). This is an inside the pipe installation.

You need to use a diamond drill bit, with water to keep the bit cool and drill slowly. You probably have porcelain tile and it's too hard for carbide bits.

As you look down: the BACK / BOTTOM side of the flange should sit on top of the finished flooring.



There is more than enough clearance in the toilet's base for the flange. The 'horn' of the bowl should be 'into' the flange and directs the waste into the piping (like a hose nozzle).

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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My 2 cents worth is that I have NEVER fastened a flange to a concrete floor. The way the fill material is under the concrete the pipe is securely fastened so the flange CANNOT move.

My 1/2 cent worth: I also never fasten the flange to a concrete floor, but, I install lead anchors and run the flange bolts into the anchors; so the toilet is never pulling against the flange.

WE install a cardboard sleeve before the concrete is poured, so in many cases there is no concrete around the pipe to anchor to. But, if I were going to anchor the toilet to the concrete, it would make just as much sense to anchor the flange instead.



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