Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
freshsm (AL)
So this is really my first big DIY project. My wife and I just started on renovating our master bath. We have had a couple of plumbers come in and they all said the nipples need to be replaced behind the sink. So I have been trying to find a video of this process but no luck. From what I gathered I need to get the new brass nipple and wrap the end with teflon tape and apply doping as well. Also wondering if y'all had recommendations on the best kind of shut off valve to get.So after I replace the nipple I will just add the shut off valve with a compression fitting correct? I just am wondering if I am missing any steps and if I should replace the 90 angle as well. Also for the main center drain would you guys recommend replacing that with plastic? It currently leaks so I am trying to figure out the best way to replace it. Also I was looking into the double valve to single valve shower replacement. I have copper throughout the house. All the videos I have seen show soldering so unless there is a way to do that without soldering I guess I am outta luck as I don't have the equipment to perform that job. Any advice you guys have would be greatly appreciated. I am really looking to learn and do as much of this on my own as possible. I am just trying to figure out what I need to leave to the pros. I attached photos so y'all could take a look at what I have going on. Thanks again.
[s40.photobucket.com]
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
wetordry (AZ)
If you're replacing the nipples with brass then the valves will 1/2" npt X 3/8" compression and I'll recommend 1/4 turn. You can also swap out that drain nipple but you won't want brass for that $$$! Bring your pics with you when you go shopping and any relevant measurements written down like the distance of the finished wall (planned) to the center of the toilet flange. Usually 12". Now is the time to figure if you want the shower head up higher which has been popular lately for taller people. Or maybe even rain style multiple heads. Copper isn't that hard to learn to sweat (solder), just try some practice pieces a few times first. When it comes to sweating cleanliness IS godliness. Bright and shiny in and out and flux it immediately. check you tube for tutorials. Buy a MAPP gas torch and striker, yellow bottle not the blue propane. Oh and check your old copper for pitting corrosion. It looks bad in the shower pic. OK that's all for now I'm sure you'll get lots of good advice here!
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
the nipples are 3/8 inch, not 1/2 inch..
get three 3/8 screw on caps (iron will be fine as they are only temporary)..
cap the ends of the nipples so you can cut drill nice neat holes in the vanity back, then replace the caps with the valves.
do get that old galvanized drain nipple out and replace with a plastic adapter and glued in plastic pipe.
i can't tell from your pictures but if there is 1 1/2 inch copper tubing behind that old nipple, you can simply cut the copper and use a shielded rubber coupling to adapt from copper to plastic. put a new plastic 90 to stick the drain out of the wall close to the center of the vanity.
as for the shower valve replacement, well, that's gonna take some expertise. if you are not comfortable with soldering then that can be quite a job.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
listen to Packy
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|