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Author:
sum (FL)
I did a bunch of soldering in my utility room - hot & cold washing machine valves, hot and cold to water heater etc...
but no water heater yet.
So all I have is a 3/4" copper stub out from the cold side, and a 1/2" copper stub out on the hot side.
I have already put a John Guest cap on the 3/4" cold side and tested that - no leak.
On the hot side I made 4 more soldered joints I would like to test, then close up the wall, patch/sand/paint, before I put in the water heater.
What is the cheapest way to throw together something to connect the two stub outs together, from the cold feeding the hot side to get it under pressure, for a few days before I take it apart to do the water heater? Since it's a throw away contraption I would prefer not to waste copper joints and pipes and solder.
The simplest way I can think of is to put on a 1/2" and a 3/4" compression hose bib, then use a washing machine hose to connect the two faucets. However I can't find a 3/4" compression hose bib, and I am not sure I want to strangle the stub out with the ferrule.
May be some Sharkbites, I have one or two 1/2" SB couplings for emergency usages.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
"Waste" the copper joint and solder.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
I think copper fittings would be the least expensive option. Maybe 3 cents worth of solder .
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Author:
steve (CA)
Sum, are the hot and cold valves on at laundry area? If yes, connect them together with the hose.
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Author:
sum (FL)
steve, I end up doing the soldered route, as I have a 3/4" copper (cold), and a 1/2" copper (hot) stubout. If I do the hose I need to connect some a slip X threaded fitting, then from there to a hose threaded fitting, then the hose.
Now on to an unrelated question, but about soldering copper joints - I need to solder a 3/4" repair coupling to connect two copper pipes - need to be a repair coupling because I have no wiggle room. However this is on a vertical section. I am thinking once I put the flux on and slide the coupling into position, there is a chance the heat or the flux may cause it to drop, may be not. Is it necessary for me to do something to hold the coupling up that would not be in the way of sweating the bottom side of that joint?
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Author:
sum (FL)
Well, poor planning. I got the water heater there and took everything apart then I changed my mind where to mount the heater, which calls for more pipe and fittings.
I had to bypass the heater again. So I end up using some sharkbites I had and amazingly some scrap old copper junk I had in a bucket.
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