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Author:
sum (FL)
I am planning to install a Titan electric water heater for each of the unit in a duplex.
Went to the local Titan retailer and looked at the unit. Bought one but haven't installed it yet now I need to get all the pieces I need.
The heater as a 1/2" cold inlet and a 1/2" hot outlet. Both are compression.
I have a 3/4" cold supply at the wall and a 1/2" hot going into the wall. Should I use a 3/4" shutoff valve, then reduce it to 1/2" just before the inlet to the heater, or should I reduce it to 1/2" and just use a 1/2" shutoff? Is there a difference...I guess if I ever go back to a tanked heater and it takes a 3/4" connection I can keep the 3/4" shutoff would be the only advantage?
I would like to install a PRV coming out of the heater. The installation guide says it's not necessary but I wanted to put one in anyway. I am planning to hard pipe everything in copper, so what PRV would you recommend? Is the selection based on the heater itself or based on the type of pipe?
On connecting to the heater itself, the heater comes with a 1/2" compression but on both the inlet side and the outlet side.
What is the best way to make this connection? Solder a 1/2" male adapter to the copped pipe to connect to the female compression nut? Or make a union?
By the way, when I bought the unit, they asked me if I need the hoses too, a pair of the standard steel braided hoses. This is a Titan authorized reseller. I remember reading the installation brochure which stated:
"Yes, you can use our tankless water heater with your plastic, PVC, PVX or any similar tubing material. You must, however, use approximately 36 inches of copper tubing between the tankless heater and your plastic tubing. The copper tubing must be installed in the inlet and outlet side of the tankless water heater. This copper tubing will act as a buffer, isolating your plastic tubing."
I asked them, if the install manual calls for 36" of copper tubing on both sides, why are you trying to sell me 16" of plastic hoses? The guy said it's not plastic, it's metal. I said it's plastic inside that, the guy said that's what makes it as "strong" as metal, since it's protected by metal it can withstand pressure like metal pipes. REALLY?
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
NOPE, not really
the temperature rating of the plastic is the issue
if, however, the 'hose connecters' are approved by Titan ?????????????
ps. PVC is NOT RATED for domestic hot water service ....... period
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
packy (MA)
sum, it is a good thing Diogenes isn't in your area looking for an honest man.
other than yourself, are there any???
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
...must...buy...lamp...oil...must.....
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Just you and me, and I am not too sure about you.
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Author:
sum (FL)
OK how about my other questions on the shutoff valve and PRV - any comments on those? Thanks.
"I have a 3/4" cold supply at the wall and a 1/2" hot going into the wall. Should I use a 3/4" shutoff valve, then reduce it to 1/2" just before the inlet to the heater, or should I reduce it to 1/2" and just use a 1/2" shutoff? Is there a difference...I guess if I ever go back to a tanked heater and it takes a 3/4" connection I can keep the 3/4" shutoff would be the only advantage?
I would like to install a PRV coming out of the heater. The installation guide says it's not necessary but I wanted to put one in anyway. I am planning to hard pipe everything in copper, so what PRV would you recommend? Is the selection based on the heater itself or based on the type of pipe?"
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Author:
sum (FL)
For example, for a simple pressure relief valve coming out of the outlet side which is 1/2", I am thinking may be this one?
[www.homedepot.com]
Watts Model # 1/2 LF530C
1/2 in. Lead Free Brass Pressure Relief Valve
Would this work?
How come some of these valves are $15 but some are $200? What's the difference?
or how about this one?
Cash Acme Model # 19783-0150
3/4 in. NCLX-5LX Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Theoretically, a tank less heater SHOULD not need a termperature relief valve because if it is working properly the flow keeps the temperature under control. THe operative words of course are "IF", and "working properly". Most tankless come with a pressure relief valve.
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Author:
sum (FL)
The one I am buying does not come with one, but I am putting one in just in case.
Oh, is there some sort of standard, typical height to mount a tankless heater? I am thinking to mount it close to the electrical junction box where the 60amp line comes in, at shoulder height - for no other reason then it's more convenient to service...but is there some sort of guideline to mount it higher or lower? It is in a utility room.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
You put it where it is easiest to install and service.
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Author:
sum (FL)
In that case probably just about shoulder height would be optimum for service. The only consideration would be where I might install shelves or laundry room cabinets in the future wouldn't want the unit to be in the way.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
An adjustable regulator or relief IS NOT a safety relief valve.
The prior is an operational device, the latter a code required safety device.
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
sum (FL)
Well, that's why I asked the questions.
I asked Rheem tech support if they have one they recommend with that tankless heater, they said one is NOT required.
I looked around and saw that some do put in a pressure relief valve, but my understanding is the valve must be in concert with the piping in terms of the PSI. You can't just randomly buy a valve right?
So if I am going to be hard piping everything, what valve should I get, or should I just follow manufacturer's recommendation of not installing one?
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Author:
hj (AZ)
quote; An adjustable regulator or relief IS NOT a safety relief valve.
Of course it is. The adjustment is so you can set it at the optimum maximum pressure.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
I am making a distinction between:
a pressure REGUALATING relief valve which relieves unwanted OPERATIONAL pressure
and
a 'pop' safety relief valve which relieves DANGEROUS excessive pressure
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Dangerous "excessive pressure" is just a very high "unwanted operating pressure". THe valves are the same the only difference is that with one you can "select" the "dangerous excessive pressure" for your system.
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