Guys,
Using standard Oatey Purple Primer and Regular Clear Glue from the big box stores..in doing hundreds of joints on my project - 1 1/4 -3" dia, I had a few joints push out a bit...some about 1/8" (that I dismissed) and one was 3/16" which I didn't like and redid, more a PITA than anything else as I didn't have extras around.
Just wondering what is acceptable and normal? I bevel the outside every time and do the Socket/Pipe/Socket primer coat, then the Pipe/Socket/Pipe glue coat per can instructions, I hold all joints for at least 60 seconds if not closer to 90.
Do these pushouts come from too much glue? There must be a large safety factor built into these things, especially if it's just residential wasdte/vent lines.
Thought? What's normal?

when you 'final assemble' do you insert the pipe with a 1/8-1/4 twisting motion ?

if, do so, and hold ALL joints for 90 sec+

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

You twist the fitting to break the surface tension and then hold it in place, not necessarily for 90 seconds.

yup, forgot to say, twist all I can, sometimes I'm in a spot that can't be twisted. Can't seem to figure out why it happens, maybe 1 in 20 jts.
The real question is what is acceptable for push out?

Theoretically, ZERO, because it creates a "depression" or groove in the water flow.

I respectfully disagree - looking inside a San-tee the inside of the Fitting is Beveled opposite my inside Bevel and that in itself creates a depression. That said, I plan on 9/16"-5/8" engagement on an 1-1/2" s40 pipe - I think the flat part of the socket is 9/16". Getting a joint engaged to 5/8" is doable but can be rough in spots - engaging more than that is possible considering my outside bevel would mate with the fittings inside bevel closing that depression - but this has never occurred for me.

nonetheless - I'm still curious about what plumbers generally accept as normal - zero would not be realistic unless they aren't trying to engage as much as me.

Zero pushout (speaking as a former plumbing contractor and college plumbing instructor).

Vic, Thanks, I strive for that but zero combined with absolute full engagement can't be obtainable 100% of the time - as I stated in my experience building 2 homes, I probably have about 1 in 20 that push out more than a 1/16" and that 1/16" is probably from the beveling interface. 1/8" and 3/16" were the scary ones. I probably replaced about 3-4 ftgs over the two homes in the larger 3/16" range - all were bigger than 1 1/2" dia.
So, I stand by that plumbers must ignor some at the 1/16". I can tell you that my work was done at normal temps using new product and extreme attention to detail. I'm no slouch - so I attribute the pushout to some other phenonemon that is not defined by the technique(s) used. Must be something like the pairing of those particular pipe pieces and fittings don't like each other The most recent one was held for at least 90 seconds if not 2 minutes, I laid it down, laid-out other pipes, cut,& prepped them, came back 15-30 minutes later and there it was pushed out 3/16". Go figure, so off I went to buy 2 new fittings and redid it.

quote; I'm still curious about what plumbers generally accept as normal - zero would not be realistic unless they aren't trying to engage as much as me.

ZERO. You apply the glue to both sides of the joint and push the two pieces together. Unless your cement has turned to "jelly" it WILL slide ALL THE WAY IN, and after you twist and hold it it will STAY THERE. After you have been doing this for over 60 years and THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS of joints, you may agree, or at least learn to do it correctly.



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DO IT RIGHT OR NOT AT ALL



"SMOOTH INTEGRAL BORE" is a code requirement for drainage



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; DO IT RIGHT OR NOT AT ALL

In their own minds, they are ALL doing it "right". What do facts have anything to do with it?

PVC hasn't been in residential use that long.

I REALLY wonder which word is not understood:

SMOOTH

INTEGRAL

BORE

???

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

But you can't see the made joints on the inside, so may be the carefully crafted smooth integral bore with a little too much solvent, a portion of it got pushed out of the sleeve into the pipe, and formed a bump integral bore.

After reading many other threads here - the consensus is to rotate AFTER bottoming and to not use too much glue - I wrapped up another set of Vents today and was careful to use less glue and twist AFTER full seat. These joints were all much less prone to pushing out - some didn't - some still did about 1/16".

Us DIYers may tend to be more caring such as square cuts, use nick free pipes, consistant bevels, and lengthly holding times on glueing. Some tradesmen may (and I've read a few here on plbg) are a little less worried about things that I care about, not that it matters, but that is what I was looking for, apparently, I got responses from all the plumbers that I would hire, the ones who would do it like it was their own, the ones who care.

So, in full respect - some of the threads here become useless with too much nonsense
I appreciate and thank you all for the input although the answers seemed slanted towards perfection and theory, not the top of the bell curve average plumber . for example, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE to have a Smooth Bore - the Bevel at the bottom of the Sockets ABSOLUTELY prevents it unless you are putting a full thickness knife-edge chamfer on your pipe ends and push that much furthur.

Mystery solved, don't use too much glue, twist at bottom of seat - hold at least 1-2 minutes. No-one's perfect, shoot for zero, get what you get



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you miss our point:

AIM for perfect

EXPECT excellent

SETTLE for very good

DEBATE EVERYTHING while you are working

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

ah bernabeu, but the reality is:

EXCELLENT WORKMANSHIP AND BEST PRACTICES
FAST SERVICE
AFFORDABLE RATE

Most times, one has to pick two out of three.

in that case I choose AFFORDABLE and EXCELLENT

and give up FAST

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

At least not in Chicago. But I was indulging in some hyperbole.

quote; hold at least 1-2 minutes

If I hold EVERY joint for 1-2 minutes, you just increased the cost of the job. 25 joints or so would equal at least another $100.00, minimum.



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