First DIY project at our new home and wouldn't you know a simple tile replacement and toilet install turned into the discovery of a wet sub-floor and cracked toilet flange. I consider myself pretty handy, but plumbing is one of those things I have ever had to work with in the past. Below is situation I have before:



I have a short 6" run of 3" PVC from the wall into what looks like a 45 degree elbow to a shorter run to what looks to be a 3"-4" street closet elbow where the flange would be installed. As you can see the connection where the toilet flange would be installed is pretty messed up.



My plan would be to replace the whole section starting from the wall with a coupling, but I fear I don't have any room for error as the room is rather tiny and I don't want to shift the toilet off center, is there a better easier fix where I can just replace the closet fitting, and is the existing closet fitting too damaged just to replace the flange and install.

Any and all advice is appreciated!!

I'd reccomend a gasketed metal top flange. The gasket part will create a seal even with the damaged pvc, and the metal top will ensure no forseeable flange cracking or issues for a long time. Versus a plastic flange, which I hate because they become brittle and break so easily. From what I can see you sure can replace the pvc if you'd like, but I'm not certain its necessary if you can find the proper gasketed flange.

If that is the case then that will work perfectly, I just thought with the damage to the fitting, which seems to have been cut down from its original size to fit and the slight crack in the lip( right side of the second picture), that I would not find a fitting the would fit inside and give a good seal.

just remember:

the actual flange must sit ON TOP OF the finished floor AND be bolted/screwed to the sub floor to prevent any movement

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Thank you for the help so you guys think I can just add the flange once I install the finish tile, without replacing the existing closet bend..?

you need to replace the bend

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Cut the pipe about 2" from the left floor joist( don't cut the water line directly underneath ), add a coupling, new 45 , 90 and floor flange. You can take some measurements before cutting to get it back exactly where it is now.

i'm with my friend from NC.
use care when you glue the 90 on. you will have a few seconds before the glue grabs to get it plumb and level so the flange will sit nicely on the finish floor.

Cut it off right at the face of the 45. Install a coupling and a "street 45" into it. It will be the correct size to end up where the existing 45 is. Then cut a new piece the same size as the existing between the 45 and the closet bend. Install it and a new 4x3 spigot closet bend.

I can't look at the photo and see a way to reuse the st. ell, it's too badly mangled.

I'd put some blocking in that joist bay. Especially under the new flange.

Do it the way I said and it takes a coupling, street 45, and closet bend. And about 10 minutes time.

+ a short filler


ooooookay, THAT nit is dead

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; + a short filler

That was already stated in the original solution. But, I assume he is going to do it the "hard way", anyway.



Edited 1 times.

It seems like a fairly straight forward job.

If he is not sure, I would buy all the fittings, per hj's suggestions, glue them up first, from the closet bend all the way to the street 45 and coupling.

You don't even need to cut the original installation yet. Put the newly glued up assembly next to the original installation and be assured it will end up in the same spot. Then cut and finish it. There is plenty of play in the section of pipe before the 45 if you need 1/4" here and there.

remember, if tiling, the flange should be ON TOP OF the finished floor/tile

(easiest if 'riser' is cut and flange installed AFTER tiling)



a plumber may actually be cheaper in the long run

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Thank you all for the help and the confidence boost to do it myself here is the finished work.



I also added another 2x4 support closer to the closet bend.





My last question is because the closet bend is at a slight angle for it to connect to the 45 is there any way to cut the closet bend or the toilet flange down slightly so that it will sit flush after I install the tile floor?

The only way what you did could work is that the toilet opening is further from the wall than originally, as evidenced by the longer pipe between the 45 and the bend and the fact that the 45 had to move further to the left.The bend is NOT crooked because it had to connect to the 45, it is crooked because the 45 was NOT installed plumb.



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Just cut off from the toilet flange what is necessary to make it set flat on the finished floor. It doesn't look like it will take too much off the flange.

You are correct that the 45 is not plumb, because of the way the main drain line was originally installed when the house was build the 2x4 that is supporting the closet bend is higher then the 45 itself in order to have the closet bend supported by the 2x4 the 45 had to be installed at a slight angle, I know I could have probably cut the support down a little but I didn't think of that at he time of the install unfortunately. I appreciate all the helpful advice this forum has offered, looks like i will be trimming down the closet bend and flange to fit flush with the floor!!



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You don't want the toilet flange to be flush with the finished floor, you want the toilet flange to be sitting on top of the floor.

Look at the picture bernabeu posted.



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Recommend that you place the flange after the flooring is installedto ensure correct level. Also make sure you use metal flanged flange preferably stainless like this
[www.homedepot.com]
And use ovl head stainless screws to secure the flange like this

[www.amazon.com]