I decided to go with a freestanding utility tub rather than cabinets and drop in utility sink in my garage (earlier post).

I need some ideas for running the supply lines in the garage so that I can drain or turn off in extreme cold weather. The garage generally does not get below freezing, but I want to play it safe. I'm not all that concerned with aesthetics, just function & safety.
Garage is half of the lower level, insulated basement is the other half. I have access to the plumbing in the basement directly behind where the garage sink will be.

Any recommendations? Frost free hose bibbs into the basement section? Regular isolation valves inside basement, and a drain valve in the garage?
What do you pro's usually do?

I forgot to mention that in this install, the sink will need a lift pump to reach the main line out to septic, it's about 5' off the floor.
I already have a Liberty 404 and a drain/vent connection roughed in and hanging from the garage ceiling.

If I ever had to freeze-proof this setup, I would have to disconnect the Liberty and bring in to the warm part of the house too, wouldn't I? Maybe locate both the supply and the pump crock on the warm side of the wall?

shutoff AND drain valves in the basement.

Just pour RV antifreeze in it, until it starts, and then pull the plug when it shuts off.

So if the shutoff valve is inside basement, what do you do about the water trapped in the supply lines? Disconnect, blow out?

I suppose I could add a blow-out valve for those lines like I recently did on my hose bibb lines?

Open the faucet. If the sink is in the garage it should be above the water shutoff valves.

i'd put the pump in the basement as well.
trap under the utility sink will need antifreeze in the winter.
pump etc will stay warm all winter.
as hj said, shutoffs and drains in the basement as well.
if the water drains are lower than the utility sink all you need do is shut off the feeds and open the drains and utility faucet. mother nature does the rest.

I sketched this up real quick. I promise my plumbing is much neater and cleaner than my drawing...

Is this the basic idea, or should I keep the trap under the sink in the garage? I had already bought fittings/valves to make a blow-out setup, but if I can just use gravity that would work just as well.





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the check valve is going to keep the discharge pipe above it full. need to figure out a way to drain it.
I would put the trap under the sink.

What about extending drain branch through wall in basement, and put check valve at highest point there so none would be left in the drain pipe in garage?

Actually, the main waste line runs through the basement on the way out to the tank, so I have access to cut in another branch for this pump discharge. I'll just cut and cap off the stub I roughed in the garage already.

vent the running "U" sink trap into the tank vent

tee with drain on 'bull' above the pump discharge check back into vent line

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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Why would I need an extra vent on the trap? The drain would only be going about 18" from sink to tank.

Also, I don't know what you mean by the "bull". What is that?

That is why I said to use RV antifreeze and then run the pump. It will fill the discharge line and sump basin.

putting a check valve way up high would be like not having one.
keep it where it is. cut in a tee just above it. should be able to find a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 plactic tee. put a hose valve into the 3/4 side and drain out the pipe in the winter.
as for bernebeu's bull tee... that refers to the orietation of the tee.

packy,

what I meant was: put a tee above the check and run the branch/bull via a ball valve into the vent - open the valve, line is drained quick and easy

for the OP:

all tees have a 'bull' outlet - that is the 'branch' usually

tees are 'called' run-run-bull - a 2 x 1/2 tee would actually be 2x2x1/2

a 'bull headed' tee is a tee where the bull / branch is a larger size than the run
eg. 2x1 bull head tee = 1 x 1 x 2 run-run-bull

one may also have 3 sized tees (usually used for reducing)
eg. 3x2x1 = 3 run - 2 run - 1 bull
3x1x2 = 3 run - 1 run - 2 bull

fine point: it is ALWAYS run/run/bull, the larger run 'called' first


1.25 x 1 x 2 tee = run x run x bull

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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probably don't need a vent for it to work

18" should be ok

got hung up on code

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; putting a check valve way up high would be like not having one.

ALL check valves have water on both sides of them. On top sitting on the flapper and below being held by the vacuum created BY the flap. IF the flap leaks, then NEITHER condition occurs.

And then you get in to "3 way side outlet tees" and side outlet elbows which have 3 openings like a tee.

Wow, as always, I've learned something new here. Thanks guys. Think I have enough to go on for this setup now.



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