Have any of you ever installed a modine shop heater?

I've talked with my HVAC contractor about the hot water version for my garage shop. I'm roughing the PEX lines for him before I finish sheetrocking my garage.
I can't find anything in their online I&S manuals about the electrical requirements other than it's a regular 115v draw. In fact, I can't even find the amperage of the unit either.

Do I need a dedicated circuit for these, similar to my air handlers and boiler and if so, what amperage? I can't imagine these are more than 20amps right?

I'm just trying to do as much as I can ahead of the contractor and not bother him with questions if I can handle it on my own. Thanks

it would be the amperage draw of the fan itself

their 1/8 HP model = 2.3 Amp @ 115 VAC

Typical

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

don't forget a thermostat wire..

a 'line voltage' thermostat and 'line voltage' wiring will not 'draw' any additional current ~ they will act merely as a thermally controlled automatic switch

packy, ? accurate enough ?

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

not what i meant.
the poster said he was running wires and piping for the heater and i wanted to remind him to not forget to run a T-stat wire.

gotcha



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Make sure the pex is big enough to carry the btus, and the circ is sized accordingly.Make sure it's HEpex, especially if it's going to a cast-iron boiler. Sorry....I know that's not what you asked. Just thinking out loud.



Edited 2 times.

quote; a 'line voltage' thermostat and 'line voltage' wiring will not 'draw' any additional current ~

If they have an "anticipator" circuit, they will draw "additional current". Something like about a 1/000 amp.

Thanks all.
-Contractor gave me the 3/4" heat pex he wanted me to run.
-I'll add this power supply either to the garage circuit or a dedicated one to be consistent with the other mechanicals in the house.
-I think the T-stat wire will be surface mounted because I don't know where contractor is going to want to place it.

Oh and Paul - this isn't a cast iron boiler. I have a brand spanking new wall-hung Weill 97+ condensing with the Companion Water Heater. Awesome boiler, it's like NASA is making my hot water - only not at a price of $1000/gallon!

quote; Contractor gave me the 3/4" heat pex

WE have to assume it has the oxygen barrier, but if not, you will be plagued with air infiltration.

Are ya running it on outdoor reset? The Modine kinda runs in opposition to a mod/con. It wants higher temps, which is going to make circulation critical to keep the return temps down and keep that wall-hung condensing.If it's not condensing, you're only getting about 85% efficiency out of it.

hj,

ya got me

OP,

3/4 PEX would be the equivalent of 1/2 pipe ~ check with Modine to make sure you will have the BTU capacity desired

The stat for a Modine hydronic heater should cycle the fan on and off and would be line voltage (no anticipator needed) unless you use a relay control system with independent zone valves.

The stat location should NOT be in the airflow path of the heater - the wall BEHIND the heater (in the 'return air' flow would be ideal - assuming a horizontal air delivery/vertical mount unit)

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

The 3/4 hePex is just shy of 11/16ths ID. Might be a little small depending on the output of the heater.

and the ID of the 'barb' connectors would be ??

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Is that relevant, other than creating more head for the circ? Honest question, not intended to be smart...

more head (back)pressure = less GPM pumped


w/o the specs we can not know if the output would be sufficient


from my memory most Modine heaters have 1" or larger (F)NPT tappings

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

These new mod/con boilers are amazing. They require a lot of work initially to have them function correctly. Sizing emitters, or in this case heaters,so they can provide enough heat to the space at lower temps.They work the best in old systems with cast iron radiators, and high volume.Because of replacement windows and addition of insulation, they tend to be over-radiated.

Yes, it has the O2 barrier, same as the tubing they ran for my 2 hydro-air handlers on this job.

The garage will have the Modine and basement is going to get a hot water baseboard loop, so they're going to have to do a bunch of relay/control work to get those on the boiler and still keep all the features of that boiler (auto-circ to keep lines from freezing when not running/outdoor temp sensor was one I remember).