Hi,
My bathroom sink p-trap corroded at the j-bend and the waste arm.
I had to pull out the remains of the waste arm from the snup-out with pliers. The snub-has a marvel connection. I have two questions:

1. How does the waste arm properly connect to the marvel fitting?
It seems if I slide it in (only about 1-2 inches into the snubout), I can just pull the waste arm out. How tight does this have to be and how far should the waste arm extend into the snub-out?

2. I broke the tailpiece threading while trying to take it apart (being held in the foreground on the picture). It seems to be greater in diameter on the sink side of the drain. Ace Hardware had nothing that looks like this. Is it easier to just replace the drain than to find this part? If so do the drains have the proper plug stopper bar popper thing?

Thanks!






Edited 1 times.

The sink appears to be an Am. Std. circa late 60's, early 70's.

The wall adaptor has a slip joint nut that unthreads. Use it over along with a new gasket. The wall tube of the trap only needs to insert 1" - 1 1/2".

The tailpiece is 1 1/2" X 1 1/4" and you may have a hard time finding it as they are no longer used (though I would love to get rid of the few still on my shelf). If the trap is 1 1/4", I can't think of a substitute for what you need to get the water flowing again. I would NOT recommend replacing the drain assembly- the linkage to the pop-up is a real bear.

quote: "I would NOT recommend replacing the drain assembly- the linkage to the pop-up is a real bear"

I don't know about that... it looks like the pop-up linkage is already disconnected from the drain, it's ready to be removed. Besides, even if she had an exact replacement tailpiece, there is still a broken piece threaded indside the drain body, and that could be a bear to remove, too.

It's a fun job either way you go!

i think you should jusr replace the whole pop-up waste. it is a very easy job.
there is a thick rubber gasket right at the bottom of the sink. just cut thru it (and the brass drain) with a hacksaw.
replace with a new assembly and 1 1/4 chrome p trap and a deep 1 1/4 bell flange to trim out at the wall.
1 inch of penetration at a slip joint is fine.
use 100% silicone seal under the drain flange and ontop of the thick rubber washer for a clean, leak free job.
lastly, if you want the pop-up to attach to what you have you will have to be very clever.

The problem with replacing the pop-up is that it is probably a "rotary knob" one and their linkage will not operate it. If they cannot find a 1 1/2" x 1/4" tailpiece then remove the reducing "Marvel" connector and replace it with a 1 1/2" one, then use a 1 1/2" tailpiece and trap.

Digging the fine threads out of the pop-up isn't that tough with a sharp icepick and a fitting brush to clean things up. Finding the new tailpiece might be tougher.

Thank you all for the helpful input. it is a Am. STD sink probably put in the 60's. good call. See the awful wall texture too?

1. Question: I can unscrew the Marvel connection from the snub-out end and then slide the connection onto the trap arm. I then place a rubber gasket between the connector on the trap arm and the snub-out, and then screw the connection to the marvel on the snub-out. If I do this, I can pull hard enough to remove this, it doesn't need to bee 100% connected?

2. HD/Lowe's/Ace do not have the 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 connector; I've cleaned up the threading and would prefer just to use a 1 1/2 p-trap and not mess with the stopper. I am a little intimidated with the Marvel fitting. If I went this route, i'd have to replace that with a 1 1/2 connector? Any input there?

thanks,
Marie

very carefully clean up the threads on the tailpiece and see if it can be screwed back into the drain.

Just do it. All you need is a big wrench.

1. Are you using a new rubber gasket on the marvel fitting? Snug it down, it should be OK. It does not need to be mechanically solid, just drip-proof.
2. If you got the broken thread stub out of the drain body, like Packy says, square off and dress the threads on the old tailpiece and put a new J bend in and you're good to go.

That lets you keep the original pop up too. I personally wonder how many people actually use the pop-up in a bath sink. I never have. Ever. Me wonders if a secret society of plumbers designed that contraption to have job security. It is a hair magnet and reliable clog producing device.