Let me first set the stage for the scenario...

60ft driven well
1 or 1.5 HP submersible pump
copper water lines
20-40 PSI system
pressure switch has two adjustments "cut in and cut out" adjustment and "cut out" adjustment.
CHAMPION Pressure tank


We have had a very cold winter. the coldest in many years. we just bought the house last summer. within the last month and a half, we have had temperatures in the single digits for at least a week straight and then very low in the teens for the next month. it had warmed to about 50 on some days but very few.

within this time my water lines above the garage ruptured two time within two weeks (copper). I used to be a copper brazer to fixed it myself. on the second rupture I switched all the lines above the garage to "PEX"
this all happened about a month and a half ago.

About a week ago we noticed a drop in our water pressure. I went to investigate the possible causes... I first checked the pressure gauge. it read 5-8 PSI. Then checked the pressure in the pressure tank. it read below 20PSI (I do not have a low pressure gauge).
I then tapped on the side of the tank to see if it was waterlogged. free space still at the top of the tank and water at the base. next I manually triggered the pressure switch and nothing happened.

Next I shut the pressure switch off and closed the house ball valve, then drained the tank from the valve closest to the pressure tank. after the tank had emptied, I pressurizes the pressure tank to 20 PSI then let out approximately 2 PSI. (As I was pressurizing the tank there seemed to be air coming from the water drain valve. This has me concerned that the air bladder may have a pin hole??).

I turned the pressure switch back on and the pump filled the system until the pressure gauge read 5-8 PSI. I then attempted to manually activate the pressure switch to reach a higher reading, but it "cut out" at about 10 PSI.
Next I attempted to adjust the pressure switch "cut on-cut off" nut until the pump kicked on. After about 3 revolutions it cut in but cut out at about 15 PSI. Next I adjusted the "cut out" nut (clockwise) about 4 revolutions to delay the pump kicking off so soon. that did not help. I adjusted the pressure switch 1 more time as I did before with very little change.

After going inside and researching possible solutions, I went back out and checked the pressure gauge. it had gone up about 10 PSI. I observed the system for about 30 minutes and within that time it cut in two more times finally reaching 45-48 PSI.

I went inside assuming it was fixed. after bathing two children and washing dishes and a load of laundry the pressure switch was cutting in and out normally. just before going to bed i checked pressure gauge. it was sitting at 45 PSI.

When I woke up the next morning, I went straight to the system to verify the pressure gauge... it read 18 PSI after no water usage for about 6-8 hrs.

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.



Edited 1 times.

1. Verify 100% if you do OR don't have a leak in your pressure tank bladder. Once again completely drain the tank, charge the tank bladder with 18 psi air (if 20 psi is the desired cut on pressure). Leave the drain valve open and see if air pressure drops over a period of time. Replace tank "if" pressure drops as bladder is defective.

2. Replace pressure switch. This is a $20 cheap and easy possible fix. (How old is the switch?)

3. Submersible pump "foot" / check valve may be leaking. Install a HIGH quality (bronze) spring check valve in the pipe between the well and the pressure tank in a convenient location. ($25-40) Inside near the tank is a good place.

4. Why a 20-40 system? Do you not think your system can handle a higher pressure? With a submersible pump I have found adjusting the pressure switch to 35-55 works very well. (Of course switches can be bought 40-60 without adjustment.)

5. Not a plumber. Just someone who has used both shallow and deep wells for 42 years. If none of the above seems reasonable maybe a professional will expand.

I have found cases where dirt or black sand built up in the Tee and also the little riser nipple to the pressure switch, which caused the gauge and pressure switch to read/respond incorrectly.

OP -- "Pressure switch has two adjustments "cut in and cut out" adjustment AND "cut out" adjustment."

Not sure what you meant when you added AND "cut out adjustment at the end of above sentence.

Side note to previous posts.

"IF" you have a pressure switch which ALSO has a "low pressure cutoff'' --- the type which INCLUDES low-pressure safety cutoff to shut off the pump when the system pressure drops to VERY low pressure (example 10 psi) you may find it "tricky" to set/adjust. I have never personally used one although that type switch seems like a good idea, but I have read where they can be trouble to get to work correctly.

Also I guess you have/will rule out frozen/small split pipe from well to pressure tank.

Check the Orange/Blue box store for that type of switch for example if you are not sure what you have. Some have a lever arm on the side and some do not.

Thanks for all of the help.
Mine does have the lever on the side as well as the cut in/cut out adjustment and the cut out adjustment.

I talked to my local well pump store regarding the issue today. he said it sounded like the bladder could have a hole in it, and the pressure switch may need to be replaced.

the pressure switch is very old (by the looks of it).

He also mentioned that there may be a leak down in the well.

tomorrow, I'm planning to pick up a new tank, pressure switch and pressure gauge.

all of that will not cost too much; and wont take too long to install.
If i am still having the same issue after that, I will have my local company come out and pull the pump and inspect the fittings etc.



Edited 1 times.

"tomorrow, I'm planning to pick up a new tank, pressure switch and pressure gauge."

1. Replace the tank if you have determined the bladder leaks.

2. You now have ID' d that your pressure switch is the type that has the side lever for low pressure cut out. You say it is very old looking - so replacing it may be a good move considering the low cost. This type switch seems like a good idea (have never used one). I recommend you do a good on-line (Google etc) search for how to set this type switch. As previously stated I have read that some "may" be difficult to set/make work properly. Other than the tank bladder, proper setting/operation of this type switch may be your problem. NOTE: As Fixitangle (NC) posted also make sure all your small connecting nipples/fittings for switch and gage are clean and not blocked.

3. "IF" -- after tank / pressure switch / gage replacement you STILL have pressure lost - it would indicate that either the submersible pump foot valve/check valve is leaking OR there is a air/leak in the piping between the pump and the pressure tank (from a fitting or freeze damage). NOW depending on what your well company will charge to pull the pump and check fittings within the well ---- you could roll the dice and install a check valve (spring type) as previously mentioned. This IMO should solve a leaky pump foot valve -- however NOT other fitting leaks between the pump and tank.

4. Of course rolling the dice and installing a check valve before pulling the pump is from a non-professional (me) considering cost.

5. When you have solved your problem - please follow up. It would be helpful for others to learn. (Unfortunately many seek advice for all kinds of problems but don't bother to let anyone know how things turn out.)