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Author:
Frankster (CA)
My pressure relief valve (located on the heater's side) on my gas water heater is dripping slightly and I'm going to replace it.I saw a couple of Youtube videos and it seems replacement is pretty cut and dry,so my only question since it appears to be such a "quick easy" fix is whether I have to turn the gas off?
Once I turn the supply off and remove enough water out of the tank through the lower spigot,can't I quickly exchange the valve without cutting the gas off? The spark needed for the gas to light is started by a small battery and it's a hassle to relight it,thus my question.
If the consensus here is that I will have to turn the gas off,is it just turning the main valve off to the heater depriving it of gas,and reversing the process when restarting it,followed by the pilot process?
Thank you guys once again.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
you should be able to turn the gas valve off in such a manner as to leave the pilot lit
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
I'd check the water pressure before replacing the valve. It is possible the relief valve is just doing its job.
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Author:
Frankster (CA)
I opened the old valve slightly and it wouldn't seal as water rushed out the dispense pipe.It's shot (27 years old).I immediately shut the water supply,and tried shutting the gas down but I could not reach it and turned it maybe 1/4th of the way. I quickly installed the new relief valve and turned the water supply on.There is no gas smell at this time and the little window is too dark and dirty to reveal anything as far as whether there's a fire underneath it.The gas valve says it is on.
How can I tell what state it is in at this point? I can't see the burner given how the "view window" faces the sun light...Wouldn't the water have cooled down by now if it weren't lit also?
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
quote; Wouldn't the water have cooled down by now if it weren't lit also?
Why should it be, unless you have used enough hot water to cool the tank down?
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Author:
Frankster (CA)
I ran over to a plumbing supply store and bought a new relief valve being the original replacement one I bought at Home Depot earlier stuck out too far and the metal shed's cover would not fit over it.
I was able to relight the burner going through that standard procedure,but just out of curiosity,why didn't I smell any gas earlier? Is there a safety feature on water heaters that causes the gas to shut down if the gas is momentarily interrupted,or the burner or pilot light go out? Just wondering.
Question: The newer relief valve is on right now but there's a small trickle to it.I've played with it a few times and the trickle continues.What's going on there? Will it seal once the water's temperature rises? The original replacement earlier didn't do this,but the water was cooler at the time also.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
Frankster (CA)
The new TP valve has sealed,the burner is on,but my gas question and now this dribbling new TP valve remain.
1) Does a gas water heater shut its gas flow automatically if the gas is momentarily decreased,or if the burner gets wet or is blown out some way? Is this a safety feature,or was my case a fluke?
2) Why did the new TP valve leak as it was warming up? Does the water's temperature actually play a role in sealing it? All drips have stopped at this point.
Thank you all for your help once again.I wish I could treat some of you for a beer.You guys have really helped me out through the years.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
The gas ONLY flows to the burner while it is lit. The T&P should NOT have leaked when you installed it, so we cannot tell you why it stopped, but heating the water should not have been a factor. I am not sure why you were playing around with the gas and burner when you changed the valve, because doing that should have had absolutely nothing to do with gas.
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Author:
Frankster (CA)
Hj:
I didn't want to mess with the gas part,but as I mentioned in my original post,I tested the old TP valve,and it basically broke off.It would not stop shooting water out.I panicked and immediately cut the water and part of the gas off (I couldn't turn the handle all the way).
The first new tp valve didn't leak,but the second one did.After playing with it,along with the water warming up,it stopped leaking.What could have went on there I wonder?
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Author:
caja715 (Non-US)
tank got a little cooler before it heated up after you put valve in...it sucked valve in slightly causing it to leak?
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Author:
hj (AZ)
quote; it sucked valve in slightly causing it to leak?
"Sucking it in" would have sealed it tighter, not caused it to leak. We still do not have an answer for his question.
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