I've just replace an old vinyl flexible line that was on one of our toilets that must be at least 10 years old with a 12" Fluidmaster SS braided one. A 9" was just a hair too short (seemed like it was wanting to stretch pretty tight) and the 12" too long. I was curious if anyone thinks this is too much strain on the line or fittings in the photos? I know nothing of plumbing, even simple stuff.

Here is a front and side view photo.







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A slight bend in a flex hose is OK. I've had to do it many times. The thing to watch out for is twisting of the flex hose while tightening. The best way to keep that from happening is to secure one end of the hose, make it bend the way you want, join the other fitting, and use one hand to keep the hose from twisting while the other tightens the fitting.

That's what I did. Tightened the end on the shutoff valve letting the whole hose turn while I snugged it up , then shaped the hose, and tried to hold the upper crimped piece while tightening the end to the tank. There just seemed to be a lot of tension on the hose, but maybe it was just the stiffness of the braid since I'm not familiar with the process.

you are ok

but

why not do it right ?



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

"Why not do it right"?

Well, because I'm a plumbing @#$%&

We plan on having both bathrooms redone in the next couple of years with new tile, shower, and toilets. I'll be having a pro do all of that so a hardline will most likely be used. But for now. I just felt like the hose needed replaced since the old white flexible hose was mostly orange and coming home to a swimming pool in our hose would no be cool if I could prevent it. Our toilet closets don't even have flanges on them. The toilets just bolt directly to the slab foundation which was evidentily common in the late 70's here.

then get a 18-20" supply and form a complete circular loop which will remove ALL strain on the tube ~ the s/s braid merely covers up a vinyl hose

ps. when you get the 'pro' make sure:



also make sure the flange is bolted to the subfloor not merely the tile

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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ugh cant believe im posting...will try to understand that some peeps think one dimensional... any how imho- the braided line looks nicer to start with, imho- in a year from now the braided line will still look nice...imho- in a year from now... the steel line will have condensation marks on it and in two year and so on it only gets worse. imho... giving an eager to learn diy..er a steel tube and then expect him to bend it w/o a bender and not kink it- well.... yes a lot of us on this forum do have benders, and can even bend without benders (solderwraps) but a lot don't.. cant we keep it simple? NOt trying to start an argument- and do respect the oldschool way... but also appreciate options.

To my eye, the chrome-plated copper (it ain't steel) looks a /lot/ better. It's also much sturdier and will last almost forever (you'll never see one burst that wasn't frozen). Bending... you learn from bending it. A spring bender will work. I like the bending tools myself.

FWIW I would never use a braided supply on a pedestal lav.

quote; why not do it right ?

In this case "right" is in the eye, (and mind), of the beholder.

quote; having a pro do all of that so a hardline will most likely be used.

What makes you thing that? I am a pro, and have been for over 60 years, but have only used a few "hardlines" in the past 40.

IF you use a "steel line", (and I am not sure where you would even find one), you will NOT be bending it with your hands. And, it will still look "nice" after several years, there is just no reason, IMHO, to go to the trouble of using one.

So everything looks fine with what I did?

Exactly. When I replace the angle valve, however, I usually rotate it to the right so the supply line can make a gentle "P" curve up to the fill valve.

Thank you hj. If I need to replace the shutoff valve I'll remember to turn it so I don't have such a spiral on the hose.

don't worry, be happy





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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

or

if done 'best practice'



(finish of YOUR choice IS available)

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

ps. re: braided s/s lines

the 'fine print' recommends replacement at (depending upon brand) 5-10 year intervals

THEY ARE VINYL 'HOSE' NOT COPPER

as per the OP who had one w/o the braid and replaced prior to failure due to visible deterioration (which can NOT be seen when 'braided')

these hoses allow a 'who flung dung and run' installation by TOTAL amateurs

the OP CAN install a rigid supply if he actually had one in his hands - maybe he would waste one tube in the learning process - so what, if he ends up with a quality install

HE HAS STILL SAVED THE LABOR even after he buys the $10 mini-cutter

.....rant over.....

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Quote

quote; having a pro do all of that so a hardline will most likely be used.

What makes you thing that? I am a pro, and have been for over 60 years, but have only used a few "hardlines" in the past 40.

the PRO will meet the customer's specifications (as long as they meet or SURPASS code minimum)

if not, the PRO should not be paid

remember: JOB SPECIFICATIONS MUST BE MET

NOT

"But it meets code."

code is the absolute MINIMUM for HABITABILITY

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I appreciate all the options people are throwing out. Gives us ideas for renovations down the road. Didn't mean to start a war over supply lines

I guess my only concern was that the hose wasn't "technically" coming straight up out of the crimp, especially at the shutoff valve connection. You can see it leans toward the back wall a bit since there's that bit of wiggle room in the area above the actual crimp. Didn't know if the stress of being coiled and pressing on that edge over time would cause an issue?




I almost always pay a plumber or electrician to do things for me that deal directly with the house and it's well being and I don't mind tackling cosmetic things, but the money for the labor just isn't there at the moment.

That picture looks like the knot the secretary put in her electric cord to slow down her computer.

quote; JOB SPECIFICATIONS MUST BE MET

They WERE, which is why I have used a few over the past 40 years. That is how many times "rigid" supplies were specified.

quote; Didn't mean to start a war over supply lines

Not a war, and maybe not even a skirmish. We will ALL continue doing it the way we have in the past, regardless of how some consider it "best practice".

my point was that if the OP specifies rigid supply risers that is the job specification which must be met even though it SURPASSES code requirement

it is up to the builder (the owner) to SPECIFY the material to be used

or

settle for: "That's what the contractor gave me."


CAVEAT EMPTOR



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

40 years ago I was trained (local 78) to use solid lines and yet these days I use and recommend quality flexible braided stainless plastic lines.

Be aware that just like cars and most products, there are different grades and qualities of flexible connectors.

true

? can the 'quality' flex be reused after the toilet is R & R ed ?

? will the 'quality' flex last the 20-30 year lifetime of the w/c ?


if so


? how to identify a 'quality' flex ?

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; can the 'quality' flex be reused after the toilet is R & R ed ?

Yes, but most plumbers change them.

? will the 'quality' flex last the 20-30 year lifetime of the w/c ?

Most have so far, and toilets can last more than 20-30 years, unless you get tired of looking at it.

Until about 1968, I do not remember even seeing a braided supply line, or anything other than the bendable tubes.

when we went away from actual pipe 'pigtails' we called the rigid annealed plated tubes 'speedy connectors'



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

A few questions on this subject.

Doesn't the OP need a different valve to use a rigid supply conduit?

Vic mentioned different quality levels of braided lines, I would like to know what they are and how to tell.

Are those auto shutoff supply tubes that claim they will prevent a burst - ate those useful or gimmicky junk?

For the real old timers, back when the toilet tanks were up high and you flush by yanking a chain standing up, where did they stub out the supply? High up? Or they do it like today and if so, wouldn't they need a real long supply tube?

same valve - 3/8 compression outlet

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Probably because the most popular ones were BrassCraft "Speedway" supply lines.

quote; Doesn't the OP need a different valve to use a rigid supply conduit?
Not as long as his has a 3/8" compression outlet.

Vic mentioned different quality levels of braided lines, I would like to know what they are and how to tell.

You cannot until they break. You have to go by the manufacturer and use the ones you trust

Are those auto shutoff supply tubes that claim they will prevent a burst - ate those useful or gimmicky junk?

They have probably caused more floods, when they break off, than they have prevented.

For the real old timers, back when the toilet tanks were up high and you flush by yanking a chain standing up, where did they stub out the supply? High up? Or they do it like today and if so, wouldn't they need a real long supply tube?

They were up high and usually connected with pipe fittings. The "modern" old fashioned ones, since they are usually connecting to a standard location, do have long supply lines included with the unit, along with the flush pipe.

Why two water lines? That is someone's aberration. Usually the high tanks have conventional fill valve location, it is just 6' above the floor.

one upon a time rainwater was collected and used for flushing (sometimes even showering)

hence the expression:

I don't drink bathroom water

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

On Santa Catalina Island, they use ocean water to flush the toilets. If the bathroom is dark you can seen the glowing microbes in the toilets.



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I'm installing a bidet as well, and I have the same question. I'm worried that there might be a slight kink and not just a bend in this line. I got the shortest line I could find -- 9" long -- thinking that it would require the least twisting to fit the small distance. So far no leaks, but I'm concerned it might cause a problem over time. Is this bend ok? If it isn't, would I actually be better off with a longer line, so that it could have a longer curve to bridge the distance?

Thanks!

I'm trying to add images here, but they don't seem to be coming out well. Seems like I need to link to a website, but they're just on my computer. Anyone know how to do that?