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Author:
CFSPAWN (NY)
Hello,
I am in NY and have combined two 2" vents in my attic that will serve a toilet and vanity on one side of the room and a washer and shower on the other. I sloped the pipes in the attic so that they drain back to the vents they serve in both directions even the horizontal portion where you can't see the slope. I have read about Tees being upside down in vents but it seems better to install it to drain condensation back in this case although I don't know how much there will actually be. I have not installed the 3" pipe out of the top of the roof yet. Should I install the tee upside down or leave it the way it is. I have seen this question in different threads but the circumstances were always different. I figure it will work either way but its being inspected.
I ran the vents together to avoid multiple penetrations in the roof but had to manuever around the skylight.
Shower and washer on left, vanity and toilet to right.
better view from over vanity.
Thanks again for your feedback, this forum and its contributors have helped me get this far.
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Author:
packy (MA)
why didn't you use a 90 where the san tee is and use a san tee where the 90 is? then run your penetration out higher on the roof.
you aren't supposed to do what you did. yeah, we run vents downhill when we install a sink in an island but they make an exception of rthat purpose.
will your work ? yes it will..
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Author:
hj (AZ)
You are NOT supposed to do what you did, which is why an upside down tee does not "block" the condensate. If you have a picky inspector, he will reject it.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
a vent should run uphill away from the trap(s) served and be pitched so that condensation flows toward the fixture group
it may NOT make a 'vertical loop' like yours does (because warm gases rise)
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
CFSPAWN (NY)
Thank you, what I read from both of your posts is basically that the vent through the roof should be at the highest point and that will fix my mistake? The part where the vent went up and down again is the problem correct?
None of the vents are glued, I just mocked it up real quick to see how I could get up high enough and through the joists. I can move the Tee up to the corner where the 90 is but due to the vaulted ceiling I won't be able to put the 90 where the tee is, it will need a larger angle than 90 to make the rise. I didn't like the idea of the vent pipe being over the shower due to the potential of a leaky boot around the pipe someday and straight up was easy. The only thing I can't change about this is where the vertical pipes go into the attic, the rest can be anything.
I can put the tee upside down and come off the bottom of it, still with some slope towards the shower/washer and the other side will come off the side of the upside down tee and slope towards the vanity and toilet.
Thanks again, I really appreciate your time.
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Author:
Don411 (IN)
The vent doesn't have to be right at the elbow it can be anywhere along that horizontal run if you prefer to have the roof hole somewhere else.
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Author:
CFSPAWN (NY)
Using the fittings I had I rearranged them for this new configuration. I am thinking that moving the vent into the next rafter bay is preferred so that at least if there is a leak I will see it before it gets too bad and only ruin drywall. At least while I can still climb on the roof I periodically inspect the boots anyways.
I appreciate all of the responses and explanations. It seems every time I figure out a way, you guys always have a better/correct way.
It might not be pretty with the extra fittings but I will be moving the penetration over before gluing. So glad the roof got buried in snow which prevented me from cutting the hole in the roof before running it past this forum.
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
your install looks shockingly good for a homeowner......if it didn't have purple primer id have trouble telling it wasn't a plumber...your new arrangement is much better
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Author:
vic (CA)
IF you have no other vents in the house and this is the only vent going through the roof the last t (the upper most one before exiting the roof) needs to be a 3" x 2" x 2" T and not a 2" with an increaser/reducer after it. Actually if you just have 2 each 2" vents and that's all (in total) going through the roof according to some codes wouldn't meet the minimum venting
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
ditto vic
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
CFSPAWN (NY)
Thanks guys,
I have a 3" line that I am tying in to at the other end of the house. The whole house near the main stack has a 3" vent and a 2" vent. I was told that to prevent freeze up I would need to convert to 3" before going through the roof and read that the vent should match the main line size. In this situation will this venting be ok? I am surprised that a reducer from 3" to 2" is much different than a tee that is 3"x"2"x2" which must be a somewhat rare fitting to find in regular hardware stores.
If required could I use a 3"x3"x3" Sanitary Tee and reduce the side inlets to 2"? I can find the parts to do that easily.
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Author:
packy (MA)
just leave it the way you have it changed to. it is fine.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
4" thru the roof if you are concerned about snow/ice freeze - if snow load make sure the vent extends high enough - 36"+
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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