I AM RELOCATING THE BATHROOM SINK TO ANOTHER WALL IN TH SECOND FLOOR BATHROOM. THE QUESTION IS HOW TO BEST TIE IN THE NEW DRAIN PIPE.

Do not leave any of the galvanized drain pipe in place. Rather, remove it back to the cast iron fitting and start there with new PVC.

What's the white plastic piping in the ceiling? I hope it's not PVC for the water supply(not legal).

cpvc lines for the sink. there is a piece laying up there not connected or intended to be used.

I would NOT use 1 1/2" for a sink drain line, and the fittings that were used are NOT "drainage fittings" so they should not have been installed originally. This looks like someone's DIY installation, and they less about plumbing than they thought they did. There is a lot more to relocating the sink than just running a piece of 1 1/2" pipe to the new location and hooking the sink to it.

I am definitely not a plumber or an expert, and after speaking to several individuals who are in the business, many in the trade are not familiar with working on old stuff like this unless it involves ripping it out and sending a six man crew like Mike Holmes would do.

The house is not a landmark and the plumbing fixtures are not antiques.
And no one from the DIY channel is going to pay for everything.

We've used this bathroom without any problems since 1997, and the only reason I'm messing with it is because some HVAC "professional" did a sloppy wiring job to the compressor in 2007 which eventually threw a fault across the 220VAC which shut down the Rheem system, and there was no heat in the house for a few weeks while we were away.
The temp went to single digits and several of the weakened rusty sections of water pipe in this bathroom failed.
I suppose the blame could be shifted back to me because I didn't perform a complete assessment of the building and make proactive repairs on every potential problem area.
Or for going away and not being here to guard the house.
I shut off the well pump whenever we are out of town (after another disaster that occurred), so there was virtually no water damage

The rest of the premises had been transitioned to CPVC before we purchased the house. Another sloppy job, but it works.
There were no cutoff valves to the second floor so we had to shut off the water to whole house while I isolated the failure points and install cutoffs.

The plumbing is obviously real old.
I think the original plumbing was done with a limited budget and limited access to materials. But they were pretty good with pipe and threading it.

I am surprised you say not to use 1-1/2"
I have to complete this project and came to this forum for some recommendations.

Thanks again

quote; I am surprised you say not to use 1-1/2"

I have been in the business for over 60 years, and I cannot remember EVER using 1 1/2" for anything other than a arm from the vertical pipe to a sink or tub. In any case, never for more than a couple of feet.

OK I understand now.

So my project involves putting in about 64" of drain pipe to connect the new sink location back to the vertical drain pipe serving the second floor.
The toilet and tub are already connected and will not be disturbed.

Besides the diameter of the hozizontal drain pipe the other issues I am concenrned with are
maintaining the correct pitch of the drain pipe (1/4"/ft) and how to tie into the vertical drain pipe.

the greater problem here is getting your existing plumbing to conform to code.
if you are planning on getting a plumbing permit and inspection, there is a problem.
if not, lets proceed with direct replacement.
remove the 1 1/2 inch galvanized from the tapped cast iron closet bend by using a big wrench.
screw a PVC male adapter into the closet bend and run your 1 1/2 drain over to the new sink location and thru the floor.
a tee inside the vanity with an AAV screwed into it will cover the code in most locations.
not a big job at all..

ditto Packy

but

be aware - you are in for a total redo sometime in the near future

none of the existing fittings were proper even when installed

the 'drum trap' on the tub will need replacement

a direct Remove&Replace would be your best bet - else - spend now AND spend again soon

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I was wanting to avoid tampering with the galvanized fearing it would crack and the t-bar is in the way but will give it a try.

So the vertical thing is called a "cast iron closet bend"?


I say performing a minor repair/upgrade does not require permits.

The property taxes keep going up anyway.

BTW: Packy: I ordered a couple of those Bath Cock Elbows.

I got to find those humongous monkey wrenches I have.
Thanks

quote; I say performing a minor repair/upgrade does not require permits.

This does NOT qualify as a "minor repair/upgrade" according to the code definitions.

The closet bend is the 90* pipe fitting under the toilet. The drum trap is the black barrel under the tub. I would rip all that out (toilet, tub and sink drainage piping) and replace with code approved fittings.

Thank you for the valuable insights and collective expertise



Edited 1 times.

get a permit

should you have an insurance / damage claim and the adjuster is any good at all you will hear:

"We are sorry sir, but damage caused by non-permitted alterations would be excluded from your coverage."

check with your agent if you don't believe this



==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638