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Author:
Marko1 (MO)
Hi Guys,
My current toilet is two piece, tank has big rubber gasket which seals to bowl and two bolts. How tight should the bolts be? should the ceramic of the tank contact the ceramic ridges on the bowl? I'm always afraid to overtighten toilet bolts...but when it's too loose, even if it doesn't leak I don't like the way the tank can move if you push on it, seems like they should be mechanically tight but I"m afraid to break the tank or bowl.
Is there a rule of thumb?
thanks
marko
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Author:
m & m (MD)
If there are ceramic ridges on the bowl at the corners, they are raised so that the tank can be pulled down to meet them.
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Author:
Marko1 (MO)
Thanks M&M
The ridges are longitudinal side to side, one at the front of the tank, one at the back, running the width of the top of the portion of the bowl where the tank sits. So they're not just at corners, but I assume they are similar to the ones you're talking about.
When you're tightening the bolts to get the tank to sit down on the ridges do you kind of lay on the tank to push it down with your body weight instead of using the bolts to do all the tightening? Seems like a lot of pressure to put on those two points if I'm just tightening the bolts? (i'm skeered)
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Author:
Fixitangel (NC)
I use an x-large screwdriver to push down on the bolt heads while tightening.. don't want the bolt to spin and damage the rubber gasket. Also tighten each one a little at a time so the tank is more or less level while seating.
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Author:
HelpMePlumb (FL)
I like to tighten the tank to bowl by pushing the tank down on to the bowl with a big minus screwdriver holding the screw. Once watertight use plastic toilet shims wedged in from the back to get the wobble out of the tank.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
I use nuts on the bottom of the tank to secure the bolts and make the seal, except for the few bowls that do not have enough space for them. If the tank can move it is LESS likely to break than if it is tight to the bowl.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
When the bowl has those ridges, the tank usually comes with "U" shaped bumpers which fit on them and the tank rests ON the bumpers, not the ceramic/china bowl surface.
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
i think every toilet is different the way it tightens down...i wouldn't give any advice on a part meeting a part
i use a nut driver and i know how tight it can be...i crank them down good...some cheap toilets (from Home Depot) are 1/2 the weight and easy to crack.....
what brand name is it?
a nut driver gives you a good feel for tightness...0 leverage
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
you tighten the bolts down EVENLY until the china surfaces juuuuuuuuuuust touch
VISUALLY EVEN is the key point
the nut driver is a good idea
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
Marko1 (MO)
waukesha, it's a AquaSource ... hope that's not a piece of junk, was from lowes or hd
also, no u shaped bumpers as hj mentioned
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
to repeat: see my post just above yours
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
Union Fitter 66 (NY)
Its not best to always bring the tank to the ceramic ridges. In many cases the tank is at a cracking point by then. All toilets are different and there isn't a standard in this situation from brand to brand. If it feels too tight and there is still a rocking use a tank x wall shim called secure a tank
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