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Author:
dlh (TX)
Ok guys, other than coming out of the wall and running a new line , do any of you have a solutipn to fix a cast iron 90* fitting with the bottom of it razor thin and encased in a concrete grade beam?
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
sum (FL)
Very interesting problem.
I don't have any idea of how to fix, but is patching an option?
If the fitting is the only problem, and part of it is inside the grade beam and you can't mess with it, what about leaving it alone and basically protect the fitting from the outside instead?
For example, form a U shaped aluminum flashing under the fitting, then pour some epoxy resin into it so when done and cured, you have basically coated a thick epoxy cast outside the bottom of the pipe and when the cast eventually erode away the epoxy layer will take over the job. Or form a plywood box around the whole fitting and pour hydraulic cement all the way to create a concrete fitting enveloping the whole thing...would either of these approaches work?
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Author:
dlh (TX)
interesting idea about the epoxy except the fact that to adhere to metal the metal has to be clean thus there will probably be a leak
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
hj
I guess you use epoxy when WD-40 or duct tape won't work.
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Author:
sum (FL)
I don't mean the Home Depot $6.99 Plumber epoxy putty stick variety.
I mean the ones they use for structural restoration and fiberglass boat patching epoxy products.
I had a wood truss in my attic 2x6 that was rotted away by termites and basically turned into swiss cheese. I can't cut it (it's the top chord of a truss), or splice it, it is also nailed in from the top through the roof deck, and I experimented with those epoxy products. Ordered two pints of it and this stuff is expensive, and it takes time. I had to form around my beam, and seal off all the seams, then inject liquid sealers to let it penetrate all the galleries and holes inside the wood, let it cure 72 hours then put in thicker liquid wood, the key thing is the epoxy for wood had to be mixed such that it expands and contracts with the wood it's bonded to or else it would just be a hunk of solid not bonded to the wood member.
They have bonding agents for concrete, aluminum, steel, bronze, stainless steel etc...and special epoxy formula for each. It might be worth looking into.
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Author:
hj
why couldn't you "sister" a 2x to the side of the chord?
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Author:
sum (FL)
It was rotted pretty severly to the point where the sister might have nothing solid and strong to nail into unless I go really long like six feet to reach "solid" wood on each side. The problem with that was there were other things (pipes, conduits, AC ductwork...) in the way as well.
I end up "solidifying" the swiss cheese wood member with epoxy, then use 1/2" plywood gussets on both sides using 3/8" nuts to make a rigid joint from the top to bottom chord.
The thing is before I went ahead and did it I sort of experimented with the product.
I used the sealer and brushed it onto several pieces of wood, that stuff is nasty, smells really bad and it says you have to use N95 filter respirator. Then after 72 hours I applied the epoxy resin to the sealed wood pieces. After it's cured I put one in the oven, one in the freezer and one stayed in room temperature. Then I went at each piece with a hammer drill and a hammer, what I was trying to figure out was whether the epoxy will break off the wood like gum on a ceramic cup, and even I was able to break the wood the epoxy stayed on the wood. I was pretty impressed.
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