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Author:
banjoman (NC)
here is what i have got so far.. my inline check valve went bad, it was leaking back and causing the pump to constantly cycle.. i replaced the check valve and put on a new pressure switch because the contacts were worn and it was getting old. since then i have been getting air in the water line and when it has sit idle for a while and no water used when you flush the toilet or turn on the tub faucet you get a big jolt of air and water. if it has been used and cycled a couple of times it stops.. we never run out of water. washing machine, water hose, dishwasher all at once and still never run out of water. i have a bladder style 32 gallon holding tank in the basement, 1" water line from the well.
i am thinking that after it sits a while like over nite or several hours it may be leaking back from behind the check valve back into the well causing a air pocket and when pump kicks in it is pushing the air back up the pipe in front of the water. the preussre never leaks down at the tank where the gauge is, the switch does not engage unless you a using water.
i can't see any leaks were i replaced the check valve , it was not doing this until i replaced check valve and switch. its starting to drive me nuts.
any thoughts?
terry m
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Author:
RWP (SD)
You have correctly diagnosed your own problem. Now you must find where the air is leaking into the system. How old is the system. What did the bladder tank replace. There was a system that used a galvanized pressure tank and there was an air valve on the well side of the check valve that allowed air to enter the piping as the water drained out of a bleeder 10 feet down the well. There was a float air volumn control on the tank that released excess air so the correct amount of air was maintained. If that system was originally installed and just the tank was replaced but the bleeder down the well was not eliminated then you will have just the problem you describe.
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Retired after 50 years of plumbing and heating.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
As said/look closely at your draw side check repair\you seem to know what the problem is .where is a got to find work.
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Author:
banjoman (NC)
the bladder tank is in the basement, was replaced about 10 years ago. the check valve is out in the well house. the pipe then turns down in to the well through the well cap and goes down 47 feet to the submersible-pump. i went out there today and tried to see if i could find any where it might be sucking air where i did my repair,, really couldn't tell. none of this started until i replaced these 2 items in the system. if it is sucking air somewhere between the check valve and the pump, its gonna be hard to see. right?
P.S. i forgot to mention it did have a good old brass check valve before and i replaced it with one of the plastic check valves. i don't knowif it makes any difference or not. its not leaking back or losing ant pressure at the tank gauge.
terry m
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
SMSPlumbing (PA)
You may need to pull the pump and check the check valve on top of the pump. It may be bad. Also check the fitting on top of the pump, or any other fittings inline to the pump, if there may be any. It sounds like the water is still draining back into the well. The longer it sits, the more the water drains out until it equalizes with the water level in the well.
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Author:
banjoman (NC)
i went and put sealer on all the joints where i made my reapirs at the check valve on top of my well,, no good,, still getting alot of air in the lines. i guess its down to pulling the pump and pipe out of the well. its 47 feet deep.. it has a cap bolted to the cement well cap .. if an i said IF i can get the bolts loose with out breaking them, do you think i can handle the pump and pipe weight alone to pull it out... or is this gonna be a 2 or 3 man job?
terry m
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
If you're pulling the pump, you might as well replace the poly tubing. Unless you're comfortable doing that, call a professional.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
poly will never fix good plumbing.
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