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Author:
Doug E. (CA)
Is there any changes you make in your normal soldering method when you get up the larger sizes of copper pipe? thanks in advance.
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Author:
hj
Only more heat and evenly distributed.
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Author:
packy
on 2", i heat the top, apply the solder there then heat the bottom to draw the solder down.
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Author:
hj
Doing it that way means that the heat will be rising to the top of the joint, which has already been soldered. I start at the bottom and follow the heat to the top. Or, if I want to dig the PRestolite out, then I can use the "Staghorn" tip with 4 flames.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
Doug E. (CA)
so more specifically to the 2" brass ball valve.
horizontal and vertical. Does it take less solder to
fill this joint than a copper fitting/elbow? what
about heat damaging any of the internal components?
thanks HJ for the advice about even heat distribution.
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Author:
hj
If you do not overheat it the internal components will survive. They have to because there is no way to remove them. Have the valve handle at a "half open" position so there is no way for water to be trapped behind it, which can turn to superheated steam and "blow" the seals out.
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Author:
Doug E. (CA)
in this case it's new construction so there is no water anywhere in the system (yet) to worry about. Water goes on soon...other plumbing came in to set the meters. sloppy work with a jacked union.
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Author:
hj
There can be residual water from when the manufacturer tested the valve. Do NOT take a chance that there is NO water inside the valve body.
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Author:
mr leak (CA)
hj that's absurd about the manfg. leaving water in the valve
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Author:
hj
You have NEVER turned the handle on a ball valve and had it "pop"?
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