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Author:
gumbyracer (CA)
Hi guys, newbie here and need some help. Don't make my living doing this, am very capable, but can't figure out why my older Moentrol tub/shower control valve won't shut off. I was replacing the tub spout and while testing for leaks, the valve turned back on by itself after pushing it to off. I disassembled, inspected and cleaned it and the same thing- the pressure pushes it back on. I can't see how replacing the cartirdge would fix this situation. Any ideas??? Thanks!
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Author:
dbaca (CA)
It sounds like the cartridge was not put back into place correctly. There is usually a notch that must align and failure to do so will cause that problem. I had a diy-selfer have the same problem although his shower turned on everytime the toilet upstairs and directly over the tub was flushed. The cartridge should set very easy and you should not really have to hold everything in place. (Holding pressure against the cartridge to keep it in place would indicate that it is not seated.
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Author:
gumbyracer (CA)
Thanks for the response, but I disassembled the valve after it started acting up. It was always a little hard to pull/push, but now it has a mind of it's own. Both the internal sleeve and external body (that fits into the roughed-in valve) appear to be symmetrical- there is no notch on either. I did not have to force anything to get it back together, but I was not sure which side of the body went up or if it mattered. The only notches are at the very front of the cartridge and are secured into the valve body by a clip. Any thoughts?
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
if the cartridge is leaking it must be replaced...from my experience when it doesnt shut off there's ususally a chunk of the rubber from the cartridge way in back thats stopping the cartridge from pushing back far enough..if you called me the first thing id do is replace it
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Author:
hj
IF the inner part moves too easily, usually because it is "overgreased" water pressure will cause it to open by itself.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
replace the 1225b and the balancer at this service point.
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Author:
gumbyracer (CA)
Thanks for the responses guys. My inspection showed perfect looking o-rings and no foreign material inside the valve body. I may have over-greased it upon reassembly, but I'm still curious as to why it started happening in the first place. I thought it might be fatigued o-rings, but the inner cartridge only has two and they look perfect with no nicks or flattening. I'll try "degreasing" it some first, then replace the cartridge if that doesn't work. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Author:
hj
There are THREE internal "O" tings, the third one is on an angle to separate the hot and cold ports. The ONLY time I have ever "rebuilt" a Moen stem was when I was in the boonies and did not have a replacement, and it took a LONG time to remove the one on an angle and get the new one in. ALL other times I replace the entire unit.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
HJ.now the older brass is a cost service devise and should never be used regardless of age.use the 1225 and find as said a better solution.be sure you both wire brush the valve body and flush to clear debris.most often a new cart failure is debris found from the old ???did you inspect as removed?was some rubber "lost"
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Author:
hj
quote; HJ.now the older brass is a cost service devise and should never be used regardless of age.
THe brass one will outlive a plastic one by MANY years. THe biggest problem with them is that they DO keep working for years after the should be replaced. For Moen warranty purposes, I replace them with whatever type I remove from the valve.
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