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Author:
zepper (CA)
I have a toilet that has leaked and damaged the bathroom flooring. The house is 1956 vintage and the closet flange is cast iron with two slots and no other holes. The subfloor is 2 x 6 tongue and groove planking.
It looks like the toilet leaked recently before, because the subfloor was cut out and new planking was installed around the original flange. A thick particle board underlayment was used which was around (not under) the flange. Anyway, the wax seal leaked, particle board soaked and softened, and the subfloor again is damaged.
My question is: how were these flanges supposed to work? It looks like the toilet is attached to the flange by two bolts in the slots. Then nothing is attached to the floor, although the flange is held in position by the surrounding subfloor, and the flange and pipe is very solid. Is this how it is supposed to work? Or is the flange or toilet supposed to be attached to the floor?
Also, I've heard particle board may not be the best approach. I was thinking I would use a thinner underlayment that would fit under the flange so the back of the flange was sitting directly on the underlayment. Does this sound right?
I'm hoping I don't need to replace the flange.
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
most cast iron toilet flanges are not attached to the floor...the weight of all the cast iron piping under the floor holds it down...the toilet is attached to the flange only
particle board is not a product that should be used anywhere in a bathroom...especially not around the toilet...replace it with plywood
there are collar rings that you can buy that sit over the existing toilet flange...i use them once in a while when the cast collar is broken...they should fit tight to the old collar and screw to the floor around the cast collar...when putting the wax ring down i push some in between the 2 collars and sometimes use 2 wax rings to put MORE wax around to make sure they dont leak between collars...ive had good luck with it
toilets leak...it just happens...maybe it wasnt installed correctly or maybe someone liked to leak back while going #2 and eventually made the toilet leak a bit...
repair and reset
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Author:
HelpMePlumb (FL)
You got over 50 years of use from that arrangement. What's your finished floor? Sounds like time to pull up the finished floor, repair the subfloor with cement board, repair or replace the flange, and then refinish the flooring. You don't get many repairs to the same area before you have to step up to the next level - which is replacing.
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Author:
hj
From your description, there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with the flange, so leave it alone. All your problems seem to be because of poor workmanship by whoever repaired the floor and reset the toilet.
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Author:
zepper (CA)
Thanks for the input. The finished floor was vinyl. I already ripped out the vinyl and the fiberboard underlayment and removed the damaged subfloor boards. So I'll redo the floor and since the flange looks like it is still solid and in decent shape, I'll leave it as-is.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
It was probably originally a 4-bolt toilet installed in that bathroom. Two bolt went to the flange and 2 bolts(lag screws) went into the floor. It might be over-kill, but instead of using the closet bolts in that flange,I'd make sure there was blocking below the slots and drill through it. Then secure the toilet with stainless all-thread, washers, lockwashers, and nuts.At least, that way I wouldn't be looking at a broken flange any time soon.
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Author:
hj
quote; It was probably originally a 4-bolt toilet installed in that bathroom
Even when we installed 4 bolt toilets in the 50s, we "dummied" the front ones and only secured the toilet with the bolts in the rear. There is NO reason to use "threaded rod" or anything else to install it. And just using the rear bolts will NOT cause a broken flange. The toilet would break first if the installation was done incorrectly.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
I have 5 reasons living in my house to beef up anything installed.I have 12 year old twin grandsons that may decide to stand on it, just so they could jump and touch the ceiling....just cuz. My son is 6'5", my daughter-in-law is 6' and my grand-daughter is 6'2".Those are my reasons, and not everybody has them. Anybody want to rent a demolition crew?
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Author:
hj
They will break the toilet long before they break the seal, even it if is NOT "bomb proof", and if it is bomb proof, it will definitely break the bowl first.
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Author:
kpiller (WI)
This really helps. wasnt sure if front bolts were needed. They are useless now anyway. Will fill with caulk. Thanks again
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