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 New ball valve won't fully close
Author: Studly (MN)

I just replaced an old shut off valve leading to an outside spigot with a new sweated Watts 1/4 turn ball valve with a drain port. Everything seemed to go well while I was sweating it on, and the soldered bead around the valve/copper connections look perfect to me (not too much, not too little solder) and the two connections don't leak.

Also, I sweated it on with the valve in the open position. I took the handle off before soldering it, and then put it back on, in the opposite position (because it's easier to reach the handle from the right side than the left side of the valve).

The valve didn't seem to overheat during the sweating and I didn't hear any seals popping or didn't smell any rubber burning.

The valve seems to open and close properly, and kind of clicks into place when I close it, as it should. But when I shut it off, it still lets drips through, since I can see them slowly coming out of the spigot even days after shutting the valve.

Does this sound like a defective Watts valve, or is it possible that some flux and solder got past the joint on the inside and is slightly blocking the valve from fully closing? If that was the case, I'd think that I would feel it when trying to close the valve.

Also, it wouldn't do any good to tighten the nut under the handle, would it? I figure that only affects leaks on the outside of the valve, if that nut is loose. It doesn't tighten the seal inside the valve, too, does it?

Just wanted to see if there were any easy fixes before I replace the new valve. Thanks in advance for your advice!



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 Re: New ball valve won't fully close
Author: RWP (SD)

When soldering any ball valve it should be in the half open/closed position. This keeps pressure from building up in the sides of the valve and helps to keep the seal integrity.
There may be some seal damage or there may be some solder in the valve. The only way to find out is to remove and examine it.

- - - - - - - - - -

Retired after 50 years of plumbing and heating.

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 Re: New ball valve won't fully close
Author: jblanche (WI)

Have you tried any other intermediate handle positions, such as not quite completely "off"?

I have a threaded (not sweated) ball valve that is not closed when the handle is turned all the way to the 90-degree stop. I have to back it off a few degrees, at which point it is fully off. It's always been this way and I've never known why.

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Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[dsps.wi.gov]
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I am not a plumber.
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 Re: New ball valve won't fully close
Author: LemonPlumber (FL)

yes defect and try again.dry ?with bleeder open no valve position is important.



Edited 1 times.

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 Re: New ball valve won't fully close
Author: hj

Ball valve handles are NOT designed to be "reversed", you should have install the valve in the opposite direction. Because you reversed the handle, you do not have a "positive" stop in the closed position and may not be shutting it off completely. I do not know what you mean by it "clicks" when off, because ball valves are smooth operating and do NOT click.

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 Re: New ball valve won't fully close
Author: Studly (MN)

Thanks for the tips everyone.

Is that true, ball valve's handles are not supposed to be reversible? I thought I've seen them listed in product literature as having reversible handles and the way you put the handle on,due to the shape of the slot on the handle, it's set up so you can only put the handle on in two ways, and then the stops are set up to work correctly either way.

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 Re: New ball valve won't fully close
Author: Studly (MN)

In my post above, I realize that maybe I was using the wrong terminology regarding a "reversible" handle. What I mean is, does it matter if you attach the handle so when it's closed it's on the left side of the valve vs. the right side of the valve, and vice versa? Either way you are turning it clockwise to close the valve, and either way the stops on the Watts ball valve that I'm using seem to work correctly.

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 Re: New ball valve won't fully close
Author: hj

Most handles only have one "stop" and that only engages the limiters when it is properly installed.

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 Re: New ball valve won't fully close
Author: LemonPlumber (FL)

there is no inlet outlet side.the handle is flat metal on the factory installed stop position as are both full open and closed brass tabs.install the valve as made or re-route the tubing to leave room for the valve to be used.

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