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Author:
tnowick (CT)
I have 2" conduit that runs from my basement (below grade about 24") out beyond the edge of my patio and terminates vertically from the ground, a few feet from a small garden. I want to run water from inside the house through the conduit and to that area. I plan to use 1/2" pex from an existing internal line through the conduit, connecting to cpvc buried to a faucet in the garden on a post. I would like to be able to drain/blow out this line to prevent freezing in the winter.
My questions:
1) do I need a check valve? If so, does it matter where in that system it is located?
2) Inside the basement (although currently unfinished, would be finished some day), I want to avoid leaks/water from draining inside (its not near a sump drain or anything). I can't imagine how to drain this system to avoid freezing, because the supply to the garden would originate below grade inside the basement. Any ideas how to keep this system from freezing in the winter?
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Backflow prevention is required. What type faucet is in the garden? just screw an anti sipohon check valve on the hose threads. I would want to use a frostfree hydrant then you won't have to worry about the line freezing. If you're using another type faucet you will need a ball valve and drain valve in the basement, an access panel may be used to cover it when the basement is finished.
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Author:
jimmy-o (CA)
Backflow preventer required on outside tap. A simple hose bibb with integral vacuum breaker will pass code I think everywhere.
24" is not , I think , below your frost line, so you do need to make provisions to drain and blow out the line.
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Author:
hj
quote; I would want to use a frostfree hydrant then you won't have to worry about the line freezing
The ONLY frost free hydrant which would not freeze would cost him about $600.00, so I think a simple hose faucet with a vacuum breaker screwed to it, with a shut off valve and hose faucet in the basement for drainage will be cheaper. The whole installatio would cost less than that hydrant.
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Author:
jblanche (WI)
That's what I have, more or less. Works like a charm. Nice thing about gravity drain is for example this warm March, I turned it on, and when it got below freezing again in April, I shut it off again and open the drain valve inside. Takes two minutes. I do have some other lines that I have to blow out with a shop vac, and you can bet I don't do that more than once a year.
In the basement I have a tee with a fixture stop as a drain. I've got a 3/4" line that extends about 20 feet, so the volume expelled into the bucket below is probably less than a gallon.
Vacuum breaker on hose threads ( HCVB ) meets code here. From memory, so correct me if necessary, if you want something more substantial a pressure vacuum breaker can be installed upstream on the supply line, as long as it is above the height of any hose bibb. Can't remember if it has to be a foot or two above the hose bibb or just above or what.
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Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[dsps.wi.gov]
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I am not a plumber.
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Author:
hj
Recommendation is 12" higher.
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