|
- over 500,000 plumbing related posts
- The popular plumbing tips and advice forum and blog. Ask any toilet, sink, faucet, pump, water quality and plumbing related questions.
|
|
Author:
lindals (MO)
Bought a fixer upper house, tried the dishwasher and it runs but no water spray. Completely dry inside. Disconnected the valve under the sink and water is going ihto the dishwasher hose. (However, hot water heater has problems and is not sending out HOT water.) I checked the float and it is loose. It is a Frigidaire, Mod:FDB510LCs0 What check or test should I try next? Thanks
|
 |
|
|
Author:
RWP (SD)
This is a question for an appliance person. This forum is for plumbing.
It seems that the fill valve is not opening on the unit.
- - - - - - - - - -
Retired after 50 years of plumbing and heating.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
jimmy-o (CA)
The float operates a microswitch, which may be stuck. Easy to take a look-see at that. Otherwise, the solenoid may be defective on the fill valve.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
It may be as simple as a clogged screen on the inlet to the solenoid valve.I'd check that first. Then check voltage to the solenoid vavle.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
jerco (MD)
Any chance you forgot to turn the hot water valve(s) back on, under the kitchen sink, when you repaired the kitchen faucet? Or, maybe the valve(s) stuck or malfunctioning.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
reconnect the supply side of the solenoid and test the outlet side to be sure the solenoid is opening on demand.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
The timer sends power to the 'float switch" which then sends it to the solenoid valve. If ANY of these are not working properly the water will not fill the dishwasher.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
Wheelchair
AMEN HJ! I just discovered this week, the same technology is used to fuel carbs on riding tractor lawn mowers..... A modulating selenoid to supply fuel to the carb's float assembly.
Best Wishes
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
Years ago, my Z-260 was having a fuel flow problem on the way back from Illinois. It ran good with a full tank of gas, but started starving at about 1/2 a tank in the afternooon, but ran good at night. When I got home, I discovered that the electric fuel pump was not working and the secondary mechanical one was vaporlocking even with all the lines insulated. I replaced it and had the same problem, so I got out wiring diagram, which looked like a rat's nest of wires. I finally found a junction block under the passenger dash and when I jumpered two of the terminals the electric pump functioned. About a year later, my alternator went bad and when it was checked, the guy said one of the circuits was burned out. He also said it was the circuit that kept the electric fuel pump from starting until the engine was running to prevent flooding. I replaced the alternator, removed the jumper from the fuel pump circuit, and everything ran perfectly until I sold it.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
lindals (MO)
Thanks all for the help and taking time to post. The problem was the fill value being blocked with junk. I was able to flush it out and get water into dishwasher. But it didn't want to stay there! I have a leak at the bottom of one end of the heating element and google research says it's because the nut that attaches the element end is often cracked and leaks because of cheap manufacture. Will determine if that is the problem tomorrow and order replacement. This is a great problem solving site for us novices.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
I have NEVER seen a dishwasher yet, unless it was fairly new, that was worth taking apart and repairing.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
brass looking piece of @#$%& holding nuts?split?Class action suit may benefit.
|
|
|
|
