|
- over 500,000 plumbing related posts
- The popular plumbing tips and advice forum and blog. Ask any toilet, sink, faucet, pump, water quality and plumbing related questions.
|
|
Author:
cvcman
he used CPVC, I misspoke and said PVC is there a bif diff ?? Is this repair ok ??
[i147.photobucket.com]
|
 |
|
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
PVC water pipe is not allowed indoors. CPVC is allowed. Repair looks good to me.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
you trust the connection as well as copper
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
A brass nipple would have been my first choice, but that piece of CPVC is fine.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
so it would have been better having copper threaded fitting and copper pipe ??? Should I make him come back and do that ?? I am just concerned that this will last for another 30 yrs
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
Timsplumbing (MA)
Is there a ground hooked up to the other side of the meter? If so I would have them come back and change that CPVC to copper or brass. It looks like a handyman job more than a plumber did it to me.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
no the ground is hooked up right where the copper comes into the house on the 3/4" you can see the clamp right behind that bonnet nut...
Again this guy is a plumber and does alot of new construction etc around here and came well recomended....what is the real problem with the repair ????
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
actually it would still ground even if it was above this repair, I just checked it with an ohm meter,i assume its following thru the water ???
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
chadschloss78 (MI)
from what i know, at least in Michigan, pvc is allowed indoors, as a main supply line from the street. it can be a main supply line, just not a hot water line.
Edited 1 times.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
this is not PVC its CPVC which I guess is a BIG difference...
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
now im reading on the web you should wait an hour after glueing cpvc before using...wtf he didnt wait only like 10 minutes at the most , i should have done this myself..........
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
I just spoke to the local plumbing house and THEY said "ALL glueable plastic pipe is going to be not allowed per code very soon" any truth to this ??
Im going to call this guy and tell him I want copper...I told him from the start I wanted copper, when he had to heat this joint to take it apart he looked at MY pc of copper and said " that joint will leak from me heating it"
Then he got out the CPVC and I said " where is the copper ?" he said "I dont have a pc on the truck, anyway this will outlast you and I and much longer than copper"
I tried to be a nice guy when I should have been a di@k and MADE him go buy a pc, which I would bet he had on the truck anyway.....
Here we go again with my luck hiring things out...I he gives me a hard time why cant I just either take the pc that came out and unsweat it and clean flux and reswet and reuse it ?
I should only have to shut the ball off and loosen that compression union and unscrew the cpvc from the valve and reinstall, right ?
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
OK? Let's just say it is acceptable.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
Not really, but the way it is installed there should be no stress on the male adapter's threads so it should not crack.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
The "pack joint" is CTS so a brass nipple would have been too big for it. It should have been a male adapter and a stub of copper tubing.
Edited 1 times.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
YOu got what he quoted to you and what you paid for. Why should he come back and "upgrade" the connection for the same price.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
quote; actually it would still ground even if it was above this repair, I just checked it with an ohm meter,i assume its following thru the water ???
That would NEVER pass an electrical inspection.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
You paid him $70.00 how long did you expect him to stay there? We charge for ALL the time we spend at the jobsite.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
while not 'ideal', the work done is acceptable (and easily repairable)
?? the electrical issue ?? call an electrician !
generally, one replaces Cu with Cu .... no electrical issues!
don't sweat the small stuff ..... pun intended
- - - - - - -
Measure twice, cut once.
Retired Plumbers Local Union #1
Edited 3 times.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
quote; Here we go again with my luck hiring things out
That is what you get when you hire someone based on the lowest price. They HAVE to cut corners to come out ahead. It has ALWAYS been that way, regardless of the size of the job. Bigger jobs just have more corners they can cut without anyone finding them.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
jimmy-o (CA)
Water conducts of course, but FRESH water is a relatively poor conductor, and definitely cannot be assumed to complete a ground connection. You should probably bridge that plastic piece.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
pure water is an almost perfect insulator ..... it is the dissolved metals (ions) which conduct electricity
one of the tests for lab grade ultra-pure water is to use a mega-ohm-meter
truth really IS stranger than fiction
[www.snowpure.com]
- - - - - - -
Measure twice, cut once.
Retired Plumbers Local Union #1
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
my trip charge is $59....for $70 you would have gotten me to walk to your front door
if you truely found someone to fix it for $70 you got the bargain of the year...be happy
it looks good and is code legal...not how i would have fixed it
i would have used copper for such a small repair
ive had cpvc glue joints blow apart at 30 min wait time....i wait 45 minutes minimum....i had a 1 1/2" joint leak a while back that i waited 45 mins for....so for larger joints i now wait 1.5 hours (on the clock)
a repair by me in copper would have run you $175 range....and i think that price would be very typical in my area...some would have been more, very few less
$70 is a side job price
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
ok HJ first off PLEASE read...
When he quoted the job I did NOT call anyone else or take "the cheapest price"
2) He told me 65.00 CASH if I buy the valve which I did and also shut off the water at the curb and predrained all the lines
3) he told mehe was going to use plastic and I told him I wanted copper, he sadi "no problem I will use copper but plastic is as good" I wanted copper because everythng else is copper.
4) when he removed my old joint he said he couldnt use it because the heat damaged it he then went to the truck and got the pvc, i asked him where was the copper and he said " i dont have a pc on the truck this is as good"
I should have stoped him RIGHT THEN because as you can read this is NOT what I paid for or agreed on !!!
But trying to let it fly I went along without saying anything, i then paid him cash MORE than what we agreed on
Now I went down this morning and the joint is leaking around the glue joint..I called him and and told him it was drippng and I wanted the copper LIKE WE AGREED ON..
He came flying over with a big attitude telling me e has been plumbing 25 years blablabla...I also asked him why he ony waited 5 minutes to water test and he sadi " I bet you 100.00 the can says 5 minutes before use"
I said ill take that bet, he got the can and it says " 5 minutes handling time 1 hour before use"
I didnt get my 100.00
So HJ I just wanted to be clear I wasnt asking for ANYTHING extra and I paid his price in cash and a tip !!!!!1
Now one question, he left the screw loose on the pinch bolt in the compression fitting, how tight should this be ??
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
man you guys are arguing I got too good a price,,,,IT WAS HIS price NOT mine, I paid him what he asked, I didnt price shop I didnt try to hammer him down I agreed, did NOT get what I agreed on, made him fix it now im the bad guy ????? Unreal so I should have said " oh you only charge 65.00 cash with me buying the valve ? Thats not enough I should give you 175.00"
I would assume IF he is a professional he knew how much he needed to do what teh CUSTOMER wanted and asked for....
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
SwimRunPlumb (MI)
It sounds like some of these guys are suggesting that you DO price shop for a HIGHER price. 
If cvcman has no idea what something should cost, how is he supposed to know what a "normal" price should be?
I don't have a problem with what he did for THAT price, BUT, I would never do it because of exactly what happened. cpvc makes me nervous. When it holds it is fine, but I am not going to stick around for 1 hour on every service call waiting for it to set up. Besides, it is just more material that I would have to stock on my truck anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
in your case a price thats too good to be true is something you should notice then...ok you didnt price shop...you just happened to find a guy who is charging 1/3rd the price
if someone offered to sell you a new corvette for $15,000 would you be suspicious?
maybe you dont know a plumber charges $100+ per hour i guess
you paid a cheap price and got a cheap repair....thats all im saying....i think you got a bargain
if the guy came back for free to repair it id say he's a horrible businessman
does he drive a labeled work van or is it his wifes mini-van? does he wear a uniform???
i just cant believe anyone would do that work for that price....i wouldnt have been that cheap 7 years ago when i did sidejobs
its shocking if its a legit plumbing contracting business...i dont see how you can be in business for long
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
well smoke this, I just called another plumber that live about 30 miles away that works for a company that has 2 locations and several truck both plumbing,heating and electrical...you know what he told me " 100.00 and they supply the valve " so I wouldnt say I got THAT cheap of a price, and him coming back and doing what we AGREED on was the RIGHT thing to do.
Also he just stopped back again and we patched things up, he agreed he should have used the copper we agreed on and he was sorry he flew off the handle, I told him if he was happy so was I and lets just forget it.So we left on good terms
He drives a white panel van with company name, he is the owner of the company I believe.Wears like a Dickies uniform with name,,,,what does that proove
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
oh and they have a date of starting 1987
I see his business cards at the local hardware and also at a big plumbing supply house in a larger city near me...Maybe just because he uys stuff there, not sure...again this wasnt a rocket science job by any means, if what we agreed on was done I wouldnt have a problem. Seems some of you understand that while others keep telling me how much THEY charge or make 
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
how tight should that pinch bolt be ??
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
tight enough to 'pinch' the inserted tubing (Cu i hope)
its's purpose is to 'grab' the cts tubing and keep it from moving / 'blowing out'
ps. cts = copper tube size
- - - - - - -
Measure twice, cut once.
Retired Plumbers Local Union #1
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
well its copper now, i just tightened it with a screwdriver I did NOT put a wrench to it, I assumed the compression nut and rubber washer held everything...
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
In your case it probably doesn't matter, but it should be tight.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
cvcman
so screwdriver tight or wrench it down tight ?? I didnt want to snap off that brass ear. The one above that is just like screwdriver tight. Nothing is leaking...yet...
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
If it were in a location where pressure could "slide" it off the pipe, then it would have to be wrench tight. In your situation, and since it is not maintaining electrical continuity, it just has to be screwdriver tight.
|
|
|
|
