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Author:
hj
It would be ridiculous to use anything BUT copper for that installation. You do NOT want a compression fitting above the ceiling, and that's assuming you could even get it into the pipe, and that short run to the faucet would not warrant the cost of the tools to install PEX.
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Author:
kezug (IN)
If you look closely, with the joist in the way, I will have to have a couple of 90 or 45 elbows off the spigot just to get to that mainline. I am thinking 3 or 4 turns...how am I going to solder with the joist there..especially those joints closer to the spigot?
Thats my problem and why I am seeking other options.
Doug
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You do it in one try - You're a Genius
I am so close to being a genius!!!
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Author:
hj
YOu use a shield to protect the joist and the elbows are not a problem. Neither steel or PEX will be stiff enough to "stabilize" the faucet.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
kezug (IN)
I understand what you are specifying but I will not have any room to solder the elbows and pieces to the spigot...that space you see is only 3-4" wide and I will not be able to get a flame, solder, hands in there to get the joints soldered.
What if I fastened the spigot to a crippler between the joists, this way its secured and then any flex line will simply bend as needed...only the copper and the spigot will be secured.
Doug
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You do it in one try - You're a Genius
I am so close to being a genius!!!
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Author:
hj
I think you are rationalizing the situation. I cannot see anything in your photo which would preclude using copper. You should be able to assemble the valve and "stub" before inserting it through the wall, and thus, all the joints will be "accessible".
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Author:
packy
aren't those manufactured beams? i believe you can pretty much cut away the particle board in the center without weakening it. does that help?
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
The use of a 12" frostproof should allow it to reach across the sheetrock wall. All you would need is a 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/2" gatorbite tee, a 1/2" gatorbite female adapter for the frostproof and a short piece of pex. Personally I would sweat a tee in the copper line, but if you prefer not to solder a gatorbite tee will suffice.
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
if your too afraid to solder next to the joists then hire a plumber
id do it in copper...i see no advantage to anything else
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Author:
kezug (IN)
I will certainly try to do the copper if I can. I just am not seeing how its going to be accessible to sweat when the spigot enters the house...my illustration does not show this well, but it will be higher than what my illustration shows...so if higher, then I am going to have a hell of a time soldering the first few joints on there. I am saying this as I am assuming that after drilling my hole for the spigot, that, from the outside, I will push the end of the spigot into the house...then from their, I start soldering pieces back to my mainline (connecting with a T at that point)...I am seeing that it will be very difficult with a torch, solder, 2 hands to fit up into that space to make those first solder point.
If only that spigot would enter the house and extend past that joist I would have all the room in the world to sweat the copper to spigot.
Doug
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You do it in one try - You're a Genius
I am so close to being a genius!!!
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Author:
caja715 (Non-US)
why cant you drill a hole in the particleboard aswell. solder your 4 foot piece of copper to the spigot and push it through. you can connect anywhere you want and your worst joint is soldered at ground level and then feed it in?
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Author:
sum (FL)
I see that you have a copper coupling a couple of feet back from the wall right below the sheet metal duct.
Why not use solder the spigot onto say a 10' long copper pipe first, then feed the pipe through from the outside, when the pipe bottoms out on the outside wall, go back inside and cut the pipe to where it will align with that existing coupling.
Heat up that coupling and change it to a TEE, connect the branch of the tee to the open end of the copper pipe? That way you are not even adding an extra joint.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
SwimRunPlumb (MI)
Doug, you are missing a few crucial points.
1. A frost-free silcock will be 10" or 12" right from the start
2. You can sweat a short piece of copper onto the silcock BEFORE you stick it through the wall.
Keeping all of that in mind, when you stick it through the wall, it will be plenty long to reach into the accessible "open" space and allow you to sweat the rest of it no problem.
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Author:
kezug (IN)
The last 3 responses is exactly why I seek out information here! You have provided me insight to something I have been missing all along.
Soldering a straight piece onto the spigot first is definitely the way to go and from there, I can get it thru those joists into an area where I am not confined by tight space so I can then solder some copper connections to the mainline!
I just didnt see that when I first started thinking about this...and your insight to the obvious is exactly what I needed!
Thanks...I will let you all know how it goes.
Doug
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You do it in one try - You're a Genius
I am so close to being a genius!!!
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Author:
hj
I would rather cut a new tee into the line than go to the work of unsoldering a coupling, even if there is a way to be sure all the water is out of the line.
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Author:
Timsplumbing (MA)
I would never use a gator bite or shark bite above a drop ceiling.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Neither would I, but the poster said he didn't want to solder and wanted to use compression fittings. In that case I'd prefer shark bite over compression.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
use a screw hose cock and solder the adapter to a 4' length .... when you need to change the hose bibb in the future IT WILL UNSCREW ...(same # of sweat joints!)
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Measure twice, cut once.
Retired Plumbers Local Union #1
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Author:
joetheplumber23 (NY)
Make sure you put an isolation valve n drain tee inside to winterize it
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