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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
im working on a few old duplex's (1910's-20's)
im finding some lead drains for the lavs and tubs....im redo'ing most of it
but the owner has 1 upper they dont want to touch...and the drain had a leak where they joined a copper p-trap to lead (someone epoxy'd it together....rigged)....i cut out the bad section and redid it with a Clampall....it worked....lead tends to squish, so i dont know if its a long term repair or not....the piping is encapsulated in the mud tile floor, so i cant replace it w/o redoing the bath....and the owner says he isnt going to redo it.
is there any good way to hook pvc or copper to lead???? any advice?
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Author:
joe plumber (NE)
Several years ago before no hub fittings were made ,I ran into about the same situation .I took an iron pipe union that would slip over the o.d. of the lead and ran the lead through the union half and flared the lead out and tightened the other union half to it,using the union nut ,or ring .I also ground the beveled union half flat before tightening it together with the other union half that the lead ran through.This will leave you with female threads and you can hook onto the threads with what ever material you want to use . Sounds crude ,but it worked for me .
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Where the lead was supported by the brass ring or where your connection is the lead backed by brass.you are good to go.As you already know no out side compression, works on lead in the long run.You note the flow test and warranty only the pvc side of the joint as done.We cannot make old new as we add to it just warn as failures may cause damage to the new,!!!!! as the old fail's to meet the new installs.Looking forward and planning for failure to be repaired from above may lock you to this long term customer.Sometimes something as simple as a cover panel installed by you at the point of failure convinces the customer you are the plumber you profess to be.It will not stop the leak but could truly control the damage.
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Author:
packy
clever joe, sort of a precursor to CSST..
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Author:
packy
depending on the condition of the lead, you just clean the inside with a jackknife, flux it and insert the copper and solder with 50/50.
50/50 melts at a lower temperature than pure lead.
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Author:
hj
You solder copper to lead. I would not attempt to make a long term connection between lead and plastic.
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Author:
hj
quote; .I took an iron pipe union that would slip over the o.d. of the lead and ran the lead through the union half and flared the lead out and tightened the other union half to it,using the union nut ,or ring .I also ground the beveled union half flat before tightening it together with the other union half that the lead ran through.
That would require an oversized union, and thus a bushing on the steel pipe side. Didn't your supply house have a lead/ips union made to slip over the lead, and then get flanged? We used smaller ones on water lines all the time, basically on every house main line.
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Author:
joe plumber (NE)
@hj .It required an oversized union and I used a bell reducer and close nipple instead of a bushing .Supply house didn't have the parts big enough for1 1/2 pipe at the time .If so I would have used what you speak of .Also years ago I repaired broken lead drainlines ,that were exposed, with fiberglass boat repair kits .All you had to do was clean the lead pipe and put a coat of fiberglass resin on it and wrap with the fiberglass cloth and then apply another coat of the resin .Now things are so much easier,as all of us "oldtimers " know .JMHO
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
day 2 and its still holding
i will make sure on my invoice to include - no warranty for this repair
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
waulk, Think it reads better beyond the repaired.best of luck.
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