Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
JoshRountree (NC)
I want to add a washer/dryer, but there isn't anything correct about my current DWV system. The house was built in 1972, so instead of adding onto shoddy work, I want to replace it all and make it right. Let me know what you think.
I've got a before picture, and an after picture, plus two walk-through videos. I hope it's all clear. Thanks for any help!
Before:
After:
Inside Video:
[youtu.be]
Basement Video:
[youtu.be]
Edited 2 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
Timsplumbing (MA)
You can not use san tees on there side or back only in the vertical position. besides that it looks ok.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
JoshRountree (NC)
I don't have any on their side or back...?
***Edit***
What about in a dry vent?
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
other thsn the toilet not being vented, the kitchen not being vented, no cleanout at the foundation wall, no future vent, no cleanouts being shown and most of you piping diagram does not have the sizes of the pipes listed, the rest is barely OK. sorry
first correction would be to tie 2" lav drain into the toilet riser to wet vent the toilet thru the lav.
secondly, the kitchen vent must look like the others (lav and laundry). you can't vent from below the height of the trap.
next, bring the laundry down and tie into a 3x2 "Y" in the horizontal downstream of the toilet. keep the laundry 2", add a cleanout and vent it 1 1/2 from the top of the san tee.
lastly, a "Y" at the foundation wall with an end cleanout. roll up the branch of the "Y" and put a street 45 into it. then couple of feet of pipe and a cleanout tee. remember, the base of every stack must have a cleanout.
oh, a 2" future vent is required here. your code may or may not require it.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
1. You have an s-trap on the kitchen sink, the vent needs to be taken off the vertical rise.
2. You're showing 3" thru the foundation. It has to be 4" here in NC.
3. You're showing the washing machine washing by the toilet flange, thats no good. You'll have
wye off the main and vent the toilet before washing by it.
4. You'll need to use a wye and 45 to vent the tub, a tee on its back is a code violation.
5. Packy gave very good advice on all but the laundry drain. It has to be 3" here in NC as
soon as you go from vertical to horizontal. So you'll need a 3" wye instead of a 3" X 2"
That horseshoe holding the tub drain is a first for me.
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
JoshRountree (NC)
thanks for the advice, let me digest the info and re-draw my layout.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
JoshRountree (NC)
I made a new sketch.
****
first correction would be to tie 2" lav drain into the toilet riser to wet vent the toilet thru the lav.
****
-I have the lavatory coming into a medium 90, then into a combo. The combo is after the toilet riser. Will this suffice the wet vent for the toilet?
***
secondly, the kitchen vent must look like the others (lav and laundry). you can't vent from below the height of the trap.
***
-Unforunately I can't change the kitchen much right now as you can see in the video. Ripping out the cabinets is simply not an option. At the very least I don't think I could make my situation worse. The solution for the kitchen is to leave the current path unchanged, but add a studor vent below the sink after the trap.
***
next, bring the laundry down and tie into a 3x2 "Y" in the horizontal downstream of the toilet. keep the laundry 2", add a cleanout and vent it 1 1/2 from the top of the san tee.
***
-Done, I'd rather vent with 2". That way I only have to buy 2 sizes of pipe.
***
lastly, a "Y" at the foundation wall with an end cleanout. roll up the branch of the "Y" and put a street 45 into it. then couple of feet of pipe and a cleanout tee. remember, the base of every stack must have a cleanout.
***
-Done, I put a 2-way cleanout right before the pipe exits the foundation.
***
oh, a 2" future vent is required here. your code may or may not require it.
***
-Not sure about this, I'll ask the AHJ/inspector.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
JoshRountree (NC)
1. You have an s-trap on the kitchen sink, the vent needs to be taken off the vertical rise.
-I'm going to use a studor vent to fix that problem, ripping out the cabinets isn't an option right now.
2. You're showing 3" thru the foundation. It has to be 4" here in NC.
-Even if I'm not replacing that part?
3. You're showing the washing machine washing by the toilet flange, thats no good. You'll have wye off the main and vent the toilet before washing by it.
-This makes sense, I used a hub closet bend instead.
4. You'll need to use a wye and 45 to vent the tub, a tee on its back is a code violation.
-A combo is just as good? Seems easier to just buy it already put together. I changed the vents tees to combos.
5. Packy gave very good advice on all but the laundry drain. It has to be 3" here in NC as soon as you go from vertical to horizontal. So you'll need a 3" wye instead of a 3" X 2"
-I changed this but didn't get it completely right on the diagram. At the medium 90 where the washer goes from vertical to horizontal, I will make that a 3" medium 90 with a 2x3 bushing. I'll make the Sant and the other medium 90 all 3" as well.
That horseshoe holding the tub drain is a first for me.
-haha, you should see some of the other things I've discovered here...
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
2. No, as long as it is existing you can stay with 3". If you were running new out to the septic it would have to be 4" pipe with a 6" sleeve thru the foundation. Some states will allow a 3" pipe out to the tank, but NC is not one of them.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
JoshRountree (NC)
Sweet, where are you in NC? ***removed price questions***
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
I'm as far North West as you can go and still stay in NC. We aren't allowed to qoute specific prices on this forum.
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
JoshRountree (NC)
Oops, yeah, sorry about that. I did read the rules and remember seeing that.
I'm in Ashe County, Fleetwood to be exact, do you work for a plumbing company close by?
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
I own and operate a plumbing company very close by.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
hj (AZ)
I am not going to slog through all the previous replies to see what their comments are, so I may be duplicating them. The toilet is vented by the lavatory, therefore that vent probably needs to be 2", (depending on your code's requirements). You should have cleanouts on each riser before it goes into the floor, unless it is within 6' of its connection to the main line, (and even then it is still good to install one). Why are you using 3" combos with bushings instead of reducing combos? The tub and laundry vents can be 1 1/2". Horizontal to vertical drops can use medium 90s, vertical to horizontal MUST have long sweep turns. The "2 way cleanout" fitting is one of the most USELESS fittings made, and I would NEVER use one.
Edited 2 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
JoshRountree (NC)
What's the name?
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
JoshRountree (NC)
***
The toilet is vented by the lavatory, therefore that vent probably needs to be 2", (depending on your code's requirements).
-I may have to leave it as is for now. Ripping the bathroom walls out isn't really an option. I could replace it down the road when/if I replace the bathroom vanity?
***
***
You should have cleanouts on each riser before it goes into the floor, unless it is within 6' of its connection to the main line, (and even then it is still good to install one).
-They are all within 6', and I'm not changing anything above the floor level, but when/if I do I'll add cleanouts.
***
***
Why are you using 3" combos with bushings instead of reducing combos?
-Duh, that makes more sense. Thanks
***
***
The tub and laundry vents can be 1 1/2".
-Can I use 2", that way I only have to buy two sizes of pipe.
***
***
Horizontal to vertical drops can use medium 90s, vertical to horizontal MUST have long sweep turns.
-Got it, I'll change it in version 3 of the drawing.
***
***
The "2 way cleanout" fitting is one of the most USELESS fittings made, and I would NEVER use one.
-Okay, I'll just use a regular cleanout, and put one behind the toilet too.
***
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|