What is a good height for a washing machine box. Is the 2" drain stubout is at 12" above slab? 18" higher the drain stubout ir even highere?

Here in NC the bottom of the box must be at least 34" from the finished floor. I normally set the box so that it's 36" from the finished floor.

The top of the drain hose of an automatic washing machine should be above the top of the machine. Not the top of the control panel on the rear top. It could be above that too. This is so the water in a full machine will not syphon out during the wash cycle.

I never used boxes. I ran the 2" drain up and out of the wall on a 45 deg. cut flush with the finish wall. I used single handle valves above the machine for the water so folks would be more likely to turn the water off during non-use as they are supposed to.

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Retired after 50 years of plumbing and heating.

i always use 42" to the bottom of the box...it will be 1/2 hidden behind the washer at this height....easy access, yet partially hidden...make the verticle piece as long as code allows...i think its 24" here in WI for max length

It depends if you want form or function. If you are looking for form only, keep it low to stay hidden and out of site. If you are looking for function, keep it higher to be able to use it easier.

where the washing machine trap has a governed riser height.It is a standard which may be dispute.Figure the best severed.this is for the hot cold shut off and not the drain .Where a fixture box serves the need. Why the riser is void is as said.A minimum of 34 "may be the lowest of 2"riser standards,From the floor to the trap seal;.This code of concealed trap washing machine or max use is not ever been well received.Since the max fall should be 18"{at all max fixtures.To the trap.Be careful to make the drain above the machines holding water level!!!

Lemon, I think 18" is the MINIMUM height for the standpipe, NOT the maximum. There is a maximum I believe, but don't remember off hand.

Interesting. If you do a pipe 45 degrees coming out of the wall, how would the sheet rock finisher hang the dry wall with the pipe in the way? You cut it off after the wall is installed, or you cut it off flushed with 1/2" off the stud face before installing the wall?

the max is 24 or 36" i believe....i think we can do as little as 12" here in WI...the code changed a few years ago and went from 1 1/2 to 2"...the heights and min/max's changed to

If it is a box like this:



Do you connect the drain first? I think so, because the drain it more "fixed" then the other. So I am going to connect the 2" drain first.

The copper lines are coming from the right. The cold line will just turn up and connect to the blue line with a female adapter, no problem.

The hot line cannot, the drain is in the way. I am going to run up, pass the cold line, turn left, shoot pass the washing machine box, then three more left turns to go meet the red line. Is that the way to do it? I don't want to solder four 90s to offset from the 2" drain, it's too tight and I don't like soldering too close to the PVC.

and once it is connected, how do you open the hole to the drain inside the box? It does not come off, are you supposed to saw it off or slam a hammer to break it off? I don't want to do all that work and end up breaking the box with a hammer.

i believe there is no minimum height but it must be higher than the flow line. maximum is 24"

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

either way is fine when running the copper i go with what is easier and or quicker and that depends on the situation.

the drain part is a knock out plug which i usually use a hammer to remove

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

That is the drywaller's problem, but in most cases he cuts an "elongated" oval in the dry wall and slips it down over the pipe. The pipe protrudes from the drywall, it is not "flush" with it.

doesn't it make more sense to have the hot and cold supplies to one side (left or right), it is rare for hot and cold feeds to come from opposing directions. This is such a hassle.

There are many box arrangements. Some do have the water lines on one side, others have 2 drain openings, and still others have the ability to locate the water valves on the top of the box, (this is where I prefer to have them).

In that case, can I drill two 1/2" holes up top to mount the supply connections upside down and point the mini-arrestors down? It would save me some time not having to do the loop around the box on the hot side.

If the box does not have the valves already installed, then it will have knockouts on top to mount the valves there. Otherwise you will have two holes in the bottom with nothing through them.

Sum, your box probably gives you the option to mount both hot and cold on one side and put the drain on the other side. It is simply a matter of knocking out the pre-scored holes and then unscrewing the water and relocating them.

Some may not have the top mounts as hj suggested, in which case you go find one that does or drill the holes where you want. You can also buy boxes with the hammer arrestors preinstalled for you. They are part of the valve. This is how I always buy them.

I only point my water lines up when my box is in a basement and the water lines are coming from above.

I think I see a 1/2" ko in the middle hole, but can't be sure. If there isn't one, you can carefully drill a hole in it. I believe that you can glue the drain into any of the three openings in the bottom (but double-check that).

What I have is Water-tite washing machine outlet box. It was installed by a plumber and I later on removed and redone his work but kept the box.

It has a hot and cold one on each side, with mini-arrestors. The drain opening is in the middle.

You might consider using a SouixChief universal box; water can go left, right, or top. 1/2" fittings are both threaded with solderable brass inside. I got one today.




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Please read the manual and installation instructions that come with any and all automatic washing machines. You all have a washing machine don't you ?

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Retired after 50 years of plumbing and heating.

RWP.....why don't you make it easier on us so we don't have to go digging for our manuals and tell us what you are thinking.

washing machine standpipe 18 to 30 or 18 to 42 depending on UPC or IRC

sum. you have no code issue with the height placement.Where the machine is the variable.It's riser height was an old standard and an exception.no riser should extend over 24"above any trap .is still code .

Top of my machine (not the panel) is 34" from floor. The 2" branch arm is 12" from the floor, the P-trap is lower. If I put a 24" stand pipe, then it will bring it to 36" above floor just 2" above the machine.

So I am going to go with 36".

It would be more convenient if I can make it 42" because the supply lines are coming horizontally at about 36" and they need to turn up to meet the valve's threaded stems. But it's ok I can turn down and loop back up.