We noticed this in the showers.
All of a sudden pressure drops off to the point of releasing the diverter and the water just trickles out of the faucet, then the water pump kicks in and pressure resumes again.
The first time this happened, it wasn't enough to trip the diverter valve. Now every shower drops pressure enough to trip the valve until pressure rises and we can resume shower. The pressure drops so low that is truly is barely coming out of the faucet until the pump kicks on again.
This has been going on for about 3 days now, slightly worsening each day.
Weird but we used to complain because it seemed like the pump was always running (we have a small tank, a Well-X-Trol WX-202), and it would kick on several times during a 10-15 minute shower, now the pump seems to only kick in once during that time and the pump runs longer now until it turns off. I checked the tank and pump today in operation. I missed it when it turned on, but it stopped @ 70 lbs.
I'm suspecting that the low end setting has changed and is now too low before the pump comes on??
Again, the pressure drops rapidly, all of a sudden, then the pump kicks on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Correction - It looks like it stops at about 62lbs. I missed the starting pressure again but shortly after it started it was about 50lbs.
Thanks

Another note - This is occuring in two showers and noticed it on one bathroom faucet also so far, so safe to say, all fixtures. Thanks

Turn the pump off and drain the system and then take a pressure reading of the well tank. The air pressure should be at 2 psi lower then the cut in pressure. The bladder could be bad, or it may just need some air.

The pressure switch is stopped up with rust/iron/sediment, etc. Replace the switch and connecting brass nipple.

The air pressure in the tank is higher than the cut-in pressure on the switch. When the system's pressure drops to that level, there is NO MORE water in the tank so the flow stops while the pressure continues to drop to the cut in point. Then you have to wait that additional seconds while the pump builds up pressure in the system, but the first water is replenishing the tank.

I'm with m & m on this one. If it were just too much air in the tank it wouldn't get worse as time goes on. The clogged nipple is sort of acting like a check valve, holding the pressure against the switch, and releasing it much slower than the water leaving the tank.

Thanks - I'll need to check that out and see what the condition of the bladder is and where he pressure is.

Shut the system down and open a faucet to relieve all the pressure. Then check the air pressure. If it is ZERO, the tank is bad, if it is above your pump's starting pressure reduce it until it is lower than than, (the actual amount lower is not really that critical). If it is the correct pressure, then the problem is in the pressure switch. But the key to diagnosing it is to have the water pressure in the system at zero before any testing.

Wow = Thanks so much for the input folks!!!!!
I'll try to ID that switch & while I'm at it verify the pressure and finally tweek the cut-in cut-off pressure settings. A little background, we have acidic, hard water. A blue tint is left behind on the dogs stainless steel water bowl for example. Other than the rapid low pressure, the system actually seems to function more normal than before. Before, it seemed like the pump was always running...I thought the tank was just extremely undersized. Now, it runs longer but less frequently... like the system has more capacity; however, obviously something is definitely wrong - just different than it was. I'll investigate these things and let you all know.
Thank you all tremendously!

With ZERO, or HIGH pressure, the pump WILL run more frequently, since with zero pressure there is no air to push the water out of the tank, and with high pressure little, IF ANY, water can enter the tank. Either condition will result in the pump turning on sooner than normal, or even "instantly", when a faucet is opened. At the optimum static air pressure, the tank will deliver the maximum flow from the tank before the pump starts and replenishes the water storage in the tank.

Thanks again for the advice. I was investigating the thing more yesterday. I checked the air fill valve stem on the tank today. I let it release a short, quick blast. It had pressure with the tank full (as it should) and there was no indication of moisture or water in the air released. (someone suggested that water in the top area would indicate a leaky bladder.
I have a Square D 40/60 pressure switch. At full, the tank pressure is at 64lbs.
I noticed that this switch is not directly connected to the pump housing. The pressure is fed from the pump housing to the pressure switch thru a small 1/4" OD, 16" length of black plastic tubing. Is that normal? I'm wondering, unless the original installer put water in the pressure switch and filled the tube before installation, there could be air in that. There is a space on top of the pump housing for the pressure switch. Why wasn't it installed there? Should I install the new switch on top of the pump housing or use the existing connection thru the tube?

HJ- Yes, prior to this, the pump would run frequently and would often turn on if you flushed or turned on a faucet. It would run about 3 or 4 times during a shower. Now it lasts for about 10-15 minutes of shower before turning on again. I'm reading that the typical gpm for a shower in operation is 1.5 to 2.5 gpm. So usage is about 15/25 gal (10 min) to 22.5/37.5 (15 min) gallons, which sound about right for the 20 gallon tank. So I'm question what has changed.
I will get to emptying the tank, checking the pressure and replacing to switch likely, in the next day or so.
Thanks again all.



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When the pump is on the tank's air pressure will ALWAYS be the same as the water pressure, unless it was above that point before the pump was turned on. The only way to check it is to turn the pump off, then open a faucet so the air can push all the water out of the tank. If there is no air pressure at that point, then you have to leave the faucet open while you add air to the tank. While you are doing it, water will flow from the faucet. If the pressure is too high, then you do not have to do anything except let the excess our.

Thanks for the info. Will let you know the result.

Finally - Fixed!
Here's what I did and what I found.
I bought a new Pressure switch from Lowes. It is a 30-50 lb vs the 40-60 that was on the pump originally.
First I switched off power and shut off the valve on the well side. I next opened faucets to drain the rest of the pressure from the tank, left them open and drained the remaining from the drain on the tank.
The tank had about 34 lbs pressure of recharge in it empty. I emptied air from the tank to 28lbs.
Next I removed and replaced the old pump switch. The pressure feed was attached to the pump housing via an 18"in. 1/4" OD PVC tube. When I cut the tube off the 90 degree elbow of the old pump switch I could see the tube was filled with rusty goop. I unscrewed the other elbow from the pump housing and it was Packed with rust goop.
I decided to go back to the store and get a new tube assy while I was at it.
The tube assy came with new 90 degree connectors, however they were not brass, whereas the original was. I did not use the new ones.
The pressure switch came with a new brass one and I thoroughly cleaned out the other brass one that was found at the Pump housing.
I now had a mounted and wired pump switch, a PVC tube terminated with the threaded 90 degree adapters.
I peered into the hole in the pump housing now and it appeared like it could use a cleaning so I purged it with some spring water from while scraping what appeared to be a small hole.
Hmm. The hole was holding any water I poured into it.
Just to test a theory, opened the valve to the well and switch on the power for a second.
No change to the water level sitting in the hole!
I tried it again, leaving the pump on for at least 20 seconds.
The tank was filling, pressure was rising on the gauge, however no water was coming out of the threaded hole for the pressure gauge tube.
I started to clean out the hole with a small drill bit held in my hand only, and it broke thru.
The hole had been completely plugged. I cleaned the hole now and tested and finished cleaning it with the water pressure on. It finally gushed like a geyser now.
I put a few wraps of Teflon tape on the elbow and finished assembling the pressure tube to the pump housing. It was now together and ready for testing.
In testing, the 30/50 pressure switch was turning on at around 30lbs and off at 40lbs.
It needed adjustment on the cutoff end. As directed in the instructions I left the large spring loaded adjustment alone and turned the smaller one clockwise about 1.25 turns to get me at a cutoff pressure of 50 lbs.
I ran it thru a couple cycles to verify operation.
The pump is in the basement and supplied 2 floors above. The pressure was good from the top floor faucets and shower.
I suspect the pressure gauge is getting gunked up like the other stuff, but I left it as is because it still seems to be working fine. I expect I'll need to replace it in a couple years.
Since install and tuning, everything is working great!
Thanks so much to all for the help, troubleshooting and encouragement!
Hope this information helps others.