Nov 1, 2010 *See update at end of thread*

We have a washer and dryer set that is meant to be installed undercounter. The area where they are installed was plumbed in 1971 when the house was built and has the hot and cold coming out of the wall about 4'off the floor. The electric also is installed at that height. The laundry area is on the main floor off the kitchen. I'd like to put in a counter over the washer and dryer, but need to deal with the cords and hoses. I can move the electrical outlets lower so they are under the counter, but what about the water supply for the washer? The current water supply has the single lever shut off. Is it allowable to move the outlet box under the counter? Do you just leave the shut off on all the time?

Re-Modeling homes for 35 years.
I am NOT a licensed plumber.



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i'd do either of two things.
move the valves to the basement so you could have access or do as you suggest and leave them on.
in both cases, replace the hoses with stainless braided variety.

Use a raised box shelf in sections to over the existing electrical and plumbing where it is now.[@#$%&[img135.imageshack.us]][/URL]

Uploaded with [@#$%&[imageshack.us]]ImageShack.us[/URL] In some cases it is not only easier but makes sense to leave shut off,s accessible without the machine having to be moved!Or the plumbing and electrical alterations.Be sure the raised boxes are hinged or lift to remove for quick access when needed.

Or put single shower valves in the wall so you can shut the machine off when not in use. Run down below the counter from the valves, stub out and use a pipe to hose adapter. I am from the shut off the water when not in use school, having seen expensive disasters when a hose burst.

The average user NEVER turns the valves off, but it is prudent to have them in a location where you do NOT have to move the washer to get to them in an emergency. How you do that depends to a great deal on the location, which we have not seen.

What I would recommend if you have space is to locate the valves in the wall on the side possibly in the back of an adjacent cabinet. Run the hoses through the side to the washer. That way you would only have to move what was in the cabinet to access the valve and hose connections.

Here's some clarification....sorry for not posting pictures earlier.

I have a counter over the washer and dryer now, but it's Formica with a backsplash and sits 6" out from the back wall. The washer hoses and cords go down behind the counter. There's also baseboard heat that runs behind the appliances, so that space between the counter and wall is necessary for heat circulation. This laundry area is right off of the kitchen, so note the kitchen cabinets we have there, plus the countertop matches what's in the kitchen.

We are remodeling the kitchen and putting in granite countertops, and sweetie wants the granite to go back to the wall so I can add a tile backsplash....yes the fun never ends....

See picture below, I know it's hard to see with all the junk from the kitchen piled on there...


Here's what it looks like with the counter and appliances out.





See the water for the washer comes in on the sidewall and the outlets are on the back wall.

There is a half bath on the other side of that wall where the water is.

The drain for the washer is that copper standpipe in the left corner.

The drain is already under the counter so no issues there.

Gas pipe for the dryer on the right side.

I can take out the baseboard heat and bypass the line in the basement, then move the outlets down lower, the only issue is what to do with the water.

I put that one-handle shut-off in the last time we remodeled the kitchen, and I've spent 15 years getting sweetie to remember to turn the water off when the laundry is done.

I also use the "flood-safe" stainless hoses for the washer.

Lemon, that box you are describing, is that something I can buy or are you saying just make a step shelf?

Thanks and keep those ideas coming!



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A couple things I see in that picture. First, I would recommend that you have that gas cock (valve) replaced with a new 1/4 turn valve. Also I see baseboard heat in there. Does this still work? You are going to trap all the heat it gives off by moving the counter tops back.

As far as the valves, I would move them below the counter top and install a recessed box. Can you access under that section? I would install valves below so that you would have access to them. This sites host sells boxes. Take a look [www.plumbingsupply.com]

The gas cock actually is a 1/4 turn valve, it's one that's made for a service entrance, so it's got the holes for a padlock when in the "off" position. When we first bought the house, that valve was leaking, and in the days before energy deregulation, you could call the gas company and they would come out and fix leaks. It was after hours and this was the only valve the guy had on his truck so that's what he installed. It seems to function fine, what's the reason to replace it?

As far as the heat, I plan to remove that. There's basement under here (finished, but with a suspended ceiling) so I can run the line under the floor.

Looking at it, I saw that there was a nut on the back side. Some older valves that were designed like this often leaked when the valve was turned on and off. I was taught to replace them. If there is not a problem with it, then leave it. Since you have a basement, I would move the gas valve to under the floor so that you have access to turn it off in case of an emergency.

the reason to replace that gas valve is because it is against today's gas codes because it needs to be a valve that can be shut off by hand without the use of a tool

lemon was referring to a washer box like the ones found here [www.plumbingsupply.com] . they will recess the valve into the wall


flood stop hoses are usually more trouble than they are worth since with the quick opening and closing valves of a washer the hoses think there is a leak and then have to be reset or very often they just break on the wrong side of the flood stop

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

SMSPlumbing, the valve is supposed to be within arms reach of the appliance by code so putting one under the floor would have to be in addition to the one behind the dryer

read my previous post for the reason to replace the existing valve

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Thanks guys, I have a plumber coming to shorten the gas pipe for the stove (it comes up too high from the floor), so I will have him change the dryer gas shutoff also. Thanks for the eagle eyes on this one!!!

I finished the re-install of the washer/dryer today and thought you might like an update.



I removed the baseboard heat, but had very limited access to run the pipe under the floor, so I replaced the element with straight pipe and insulated it well, and left it where it is. It's not in the way. I dropped the w/d outlets down below counter level, but in the end I decided to leave the supply lines alone. The pipes run down to the basement inside that wall, so would have do-able to put the connections under the counter and behind the washer with the shut-offs in the basement above the drop ceiling....but....I am anal about always making sure the washer supply is shut off when we go out of town. Somewhat irrational maybe since we don't shut off the toilet supplies or dishwasher supply.

As always thanks for the help and look forward to the next project! BTW, a REAL plumber is coming tomorrow to move the gas line for the stove, LOL.

It looks good.





www.smsplumbing.com



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It work,s.needs all that it needs.Thank,s for letting us know how you made out!