|
- over 450,000 plumbing related posts
The very popular general plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, pump problems, questions and answers discussion Forum
|
|
Author:
sum (FL)
I have a situation that I have to run a 3/4" copper pipe along a wall. The wall is a 4" concrete block interior wall separating my garage and my bath & utility room.
The bathroom is 12' long. The 3/4" pipe needs to run all the way across this wall, along the way, feed a lav, a toilet, then a shower valve, and finally past the bath and feed a washing machine.
In order to run all the way across this wall, I have to cut all the 1/2" furring strips spaced every 12" on the wall, ALL OF THEM. and since the pipe is 3/4", I need to notch into the concrete block a groove so the 3/4" will not protrude beyond the furring strip, or I can replace the 1/2" furring strips with 3/4".
It seems it may be easier to run the pipe up to the attic and run across the top of that wall, but then to feed the toilet I need to run a 1/2" pipe from the attic down 7'8". Also long run for the lav sink.
Which way is better?
Thanks,
|
 |
|
|
Author:
A1APLBG (GA)
Run it overhead. It will take you longer to install the nail guards than the total overhead job. If your house was mine i would have scraped all that undweground copper and ran it all overhead. Insulate the cold water so it wont sweat in the atic. Don't worry about freezing. You have a better chance of being struck by lightning.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
steve_g (CA)
I can't see it from here, but I'd probably run it in the attic. An 8' drop shouldn't make much difference - no difference to the cold. If it's a long way from the water heater, you might consider recirculating the hot water.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
sum (FL)
run it overhead means to pre-solder everything then move it up in the attic and solder the ends right?
I can't see me soldering in the attic as it is 90 degrees out with 150 degrees in the attic now, and the fiberglass insulation is not going to be very kind to my torch, or my torch is more than likely going to burn down the whole place.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
sum (FL)
This is near the garage so the water heater is right there.
It's just that I have never seen lines run overhead and drop 8' or 6' to the toilet or lav etc...I have seen many jobs where they run underground and then protrude up to the fixture, or run across the wall and then cris cros the hot and cold if they are in the way.
Running overhead has another advantage. Where the lines passes the bathroom wall into the utility room for the washing machine, I have to pass through a stud. However, the stud is not there yet. The stud cannot be placed until I frame that wall.
and yet, I cannot frame that wall yet, because the slab is opened where the wall will need to sit on. So I am in a catch 22. I rather drill that hole in the stud but it's not there to be drilled. Running it overhead will avoid that problem completely.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
hj
Either way is okay, so do it whichever way is easier for you. I would normally NOT try to "presolder" it and then take it up into the attic.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
jimmy-o (CA)
You could use the 60' rolls of type L soft copper. That is what the repipers use.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Seems unusual.You cannot just drill one hole through the dividing wall and distribute the fixtures from the bath side?3/4"feed,but 1/2"to the sink and toilet.I hate attics!
----
Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
dlh (TX)
the furout isnt wide enough for 3/4" pipe
----------------------------
PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
Edited 1 times.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Remodel,There is always a way.find it.Be sure any tubing is well strapped and insulated.I would not sweat the 3/4"copper behind the furring stripes the nail plates will deflect the wall board.Have you taken the eight foot level to any of the walls?????
----
Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
sum (FL)
I cannot drill any holes now because the dividing wall is not yet framed. If it's framed I can drill a hole and pass the pipe through.
It is not framed because the floor underneath it is opened for DWV relocation. I kind of want to finish all my supply lines now and not do it half way then wait for the concrete pour, the wall framing, to just do the hole drilling.
and yes, the other issue is the 1/2" furring strips won't work for 3/4" pipes, and 3/4" fittings are even bigger. Don't feel like chipping out two 3/4" groove 12' long.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
AW Plumb (SC)
Just a thought. Why not use pex? No worries with your attic catching fire..
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
sum (FL)
no reason other than I am just a DIYer and have achieved a certain level of comfort with copper pipes and soldering recently, and have done the other baths with copper, never done PEX so not familiar with the fittings or tools needed for it. I suppose I could also use CPVC pipes which seems easy enough to glue.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
dcplumber (CA)
Roll of 3/4" Type L copper works great! Just watch out not to kink it and secure it down. If it is the hot, go ahead and slide your 6' lengths of insulation on before you make your connections.
|
|
|
|
|
Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Drill down through the floor and pass the copper feeds into the ,Yet to be framed wall?
----
Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
|
|
|
|
