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Author:
sum (FL)
I noticed that my tub drain is a little off the vertical line. See the while line I drew in the picture below.
This is due to the fact that the WYE (circled in red) I rolled up the branch just a tad (just to give it a bit of positive slope), and when I glue in the P-trap for the tub, I aligned the little marks on the two hubs perfectly, so the tub riser is off the vertical as much as that Y is off horizontal.
Is this too far off or ok? I can use my hand and push it vertical...should I use something to force it to be vertical and back fill the sand and keep it in that position? or leave it a little off?
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Author:
bill plumber (FL)
Oh Sum once again you make me laugh. Does that tub have an overflow?
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
What type waste kit will you be using for your tub?How far off the cement will the first fitting need to be?The location of center rather than vertical perfection may be a concern.
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Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
sum (FL)
It's a Kohler K-1357. Here is the rough in diagram.
I located the center of the drain exactly 16" from the face of the wall stud. I think I am ok there.
It "seems" to say that the right side of the 1.5" tub drain is 2-1/4" from the left edge of the 60" tub. Therefore I assumed the centerline of the drain to be at 60" - 1-1/8" = 58-7/8" from the right wall. I think it came out to be around 58-3/4" from the right wall. My tub drain right now is 2", I have to reduce it to a 1-1/8" when I connect it. I will be leaving a 8"x8" hole around the drain for adjustments.
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Author:
bill plumber (FL)
Sum find your 60" wall mark and bring your 1 1/2" drain up just inside the 60". Don't forget you need a tub box or no concrete for your shoe. You will be putting a 1 1/2" tee in that you can spin and offset the overflow any way you need to.
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
packy
sum, quit making excuses. the riser is off vertical because you glued the trap's street 90 off vertical.
anyway, it's no big deal. put a stick against the top of the riser and force it over slightly. leave it for a day or so. it may fix itself..
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Author:
hj
How are you going to connect the tub drain to that riser pipe? IF with a flexible connector of some kind it will absorb the deflection easily.
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Author:
sum (FL)
I will need to use a sanitary tee that is 1-1/2" at the top to connect to the overflow, 1-1/2" to connect to the tub drain, and 2" at the bottom to connect to my 2" riser? or do I need to reduce it to 1-1/2" somewhere below the tee?
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Author:
sum (FL)
not making excuses, yes I glued the trap off vertical, but it is off vertical because the distance is so short it has to go straight into the back of that wye, and I made sure the "tic marks" on the two hubs aligned perfectly, without thinking I tilted that wye just a tad.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
You'll need to use a 2" X 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" tee to make the connection to the trap standpipe. Its not out enough to hurt anything. A brace at the right location will help get it vertical.
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Author:
hj
What you use will depend on the waste and overflow you use. The one in the drawing is a tubular slip joint drain, in which case you need to adapt from 2" ips to 1 1/2" tubing, meaning you will NOT use a 2x1 1/2x 1 1/2 tee.
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Author:
bill plumber (FL)
I agree with nc plumbler. Don't use a tubular waste and overflow.
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Author:
packy
oh, i don't know about that. some brass W&O are made from really heavy material. especially the ones made for deep tubs. only thing to watch for is brass slip nuts.
i've seen heavy W&O that were old, old old and were in fine shape..
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Author:
hj
Nothing wrong with a tubular waste and overflow, except that they are more expensive.
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Author:
sum (FL)
the tub does not come with any waste/overflow kit, so I will need to buy one. I think I will get a PVC one (I saw some brass ones but not sure if that is better) that works for my particular tub. What exactly is a "tubular"? Is that when the pipe and fittings are connected via a slip joint instead of hard glued?
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Author:
SMSPlumbing (PA)
Tubular is thinner than schedule 40 and usually does have a slip joint connection. I like to hard pipe mine, with an item like this [url] [www.decorisland.com] Lift Drain w/ COH & Retaining Ring&brand=GERBER[/url]
Edited 4 times.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Here in NC if you use a tubular waste, you must leave an access panel. I use Watco 901's almost exclusively, and avoid having a panel.
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Author:
sum (FL)
Even if the rough in diagram shows a "tubular" waste, it does not restrict me in any way to use one right? I think most generic one will work (I will double check)?
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
That is nice sum.What or which will you use keeping in mind any standard tub waste will work?Sorry ,we as plumbers can do.will say if we cannot.All the drains would work although the brass would be the hardest.and I would not recommend cable ones.A nice lift and turn is your best bet.I use the 620apvc by Keeny manufacturing co.I often use a 2x1 1/2 x1 1/2 sant tee with it.Watch that you leave room for your waste kit as you pour cement.
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Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj
Cable drains are great, UNTIL the mechanism wears or breaks. (I have a customer right now who has to decide whether to pull their drop in bathtub out and replace the drain assembly, or keep using a rubber disc to close the drain.) A push/pull drain will be more reliable over the long haul.
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