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- over 450,000 plumbing related posts
The very popular general plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, pump problems, questions and answers discussion Forum
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Author:
aj62 (NJ)
It looks like the valve was not set deep enough. May have to live with it. Mystery piece is for rough in. That should be left on and used as a
guide to cut the hole in the wall board and tile.
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Author:
sum (FL)
Does the mystery piece has a marker on the edge that shows a minimum and a maximum line within which your finished tile surface MUST fall?
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Author:
mocheydg (NY)
I get with Moes all the time. They all are the same and the techhies claim that the escution tube that goes over it lets you have play. Its ok but they always come out like that. Your gonna have 2 live w it. Sorry
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Author:
BigReg1500 (CT)
Same thing on a Moen I put in at my house. You follow the marker for the appropriate wall thickness (which in my case was tile+board) and it still comes out like this. So much for the effectiveness of pictures-only instructions.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
I'd rather have it an inch out rather than an inch in.
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Author:
sum (FL)
Yikes so this is a design issue?
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Author:
joe plumber (NE)
I have put in a lot of these valves .If you know what your finished wall thickness is going to be and you measure correctly there should be no problem with the valve being installed properly.It's all part of the job.
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Author:
jimmy-o (CA)
It is not a design issue. It does involve aesthetics, but he could have set that valve an inch deeper. Too late now.
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Author:
hj
There is no "where it should be" dimension. As long as the valve is between its max and min dimensions, and you would know it if it were not, then it is a proper installation. Now, maybe YOU THINK it should be closer to the wall, but Moen's installation does not specify that, and "jillions" of them are installed exactly like yours is.
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Author:
hj
And he could have set the valve so deep that he would now need an extension kit also. The real problem is that the Moen handle is so "clunky" that it does not look good no matter where you put it.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Sum you are installing grohe???Read the directions!
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Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
AJ how was the valve anchored?
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Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Mochey .If you cannot get it right find something else to do with your time.
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Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Sorry every one !!!I have dealt with so many issues and the twenty guys I follow behind have been told not shown ,add a none anchored tub spout to this valve and the fun really gets on my nerves.
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Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
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Author:
photomikey (CA)
Lemon Plumber, you don't have to post seven times in a row. You can post once and sum up your thoughts in groups, known as "paragraphs".
To those of you who offered advice, thank you!
I do have access to the rear of that wall (thinking ahead - access panel!), but it still looks like a lot of work to me to bring it out 1"... a LOT of 90's. Is there an easier way?
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Author:
PlumberManDan (IA)
take a picture thru the access, you should have enough play to pull the valve back into the wall at least 1/2"
 PlumbCat TM 2003
Plumbermandan
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Author:
photomikey (CA)
Dan, if I just wedge a 1x4 between the copper and the hardibacker, it'd pull it back 3/4". Will this screw anything up?
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Author:
hj
Yes, do like EVERYONE else and leave it the way it is. That is how Moen designed it, otherwise they would specify that it has to be within a 1/2" +/- of some "ideal" measurement. They do not, they give about 2" leeway between too shallow or too deep.
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Author:
photomikey (CA)
It has been said of airplanes that any landing you can walk away from is a "good" landing -- a landing that you can walk away from AND use the aircraft again is a "great" landing.
hj, I appreciate that "good" is good enough for your customers, but I'm shooting for better. Not 1" of handle protruding from the wall.
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Author:
BigReg1500 (CT)
If you wedge a 1x4 behind that pipe, you'll likely put the handle at an angle which could cause other issues.
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Author:
photomikey (CA)
If I put a 1x4 above and below, wouldn't that make it even?
Not saying it's the perfect solution, just that it'd work.
-MW
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
If you can move the valve body at all without moving straps then go ahead and stress the valve body to where ever you want .it was installed incorrectly.So the tubing joints breaking loose could be attributed to the installer when the home floods!Call back the installer and specify the wanted, not usable dimension you seek.I do try to install them as the pretty picture shows.
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Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
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Author:
photomikey (CA)
I love how on all of these forums, there are 100 helpful people, and one cross old-fogie who doesn't think anyone other than them has the "right" to fit pipe.
Thank you all for the helpful advice, and Lemon Plumber, I bet you're as much of a lemon in real life as you are on this forum!
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Author:
dlh (TX)
as hj mentioned, he manufacturer made that valve with a +/- 1". to you the handle is out 1" to far but to us and the manufacturer it is set at its maximum distance out. as long as you dont see brass and can install the parts and have them function they way they do, it is a good install.
if you wanted it at the distance you consider "perfect" you should have made sure it was set "perfect" before the walls were finished or at least let the installer know what you were looking for in the finished product.
all lemon was trying to say is, prying the valve back away from the wall could put stress on the piping and cause other problems
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
steve_g (CA)
If you want it an inch further back, you should have it an inch further back. If you have access to it from in back, that's where you would go to get the inch. I would be disinclined to force it.
Why not call the rough-in plumber back & ask him to move it? It would likely only take an hour - two max. I don't think it qualifies as a freebie but if it were me, I would go light.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj
"Better" is in the eyes of the beholder, and is YOUR definition of the installation. Moen designed that valve to have anywhere from 1/4" to almost 2" of the sleeve showing, and ANYTHING between those dimensions is a "proper" installation. The worst thing a plumber can encounter is putting the valve in so YOU would be happy with the exposure, and then finding out YOU decided to use something like 3/4" slate tile for the shower and the valve is too deep for it. Then an extension kit has to be purchased and installed, which would put the handle 1" or more from the wall AGAIN. We install the valve with that black plastic ring EVEN with the surface of the wall, which is Moen's "optimum" installation. And when we do that, lo and behold, we wind up with a valve JUST LIKE YOURS. Just because some designer or engineer mounts a valve to a piece of plywood, and sets it so only a 1/4" of sleeve is visible does NOT make that the "standard" for installations. When the valve is installed at Moen's optimum measurement, which yours appears to be, then it can be repaired by removing the handle and the stop tube ONLY. When it is buried in the wall the way you want it, the trim ring also has to be removed to get access to the retainer clip. Your real solution is to get rid of that lever handle, which is causing the trouble, and install a crystal teardrop handle.
Edited 3 times.
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Author:
hj
Maybe he wouldn't care if it were crooked as long as he could not see the stop tube.
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Author:
hj
quote; Call back the installer and specify the wanted, not usable dimension you seek.
No problem. It will be done at my normal rates, and if any joints or the valve is damaged by "tweaking" it, YOUR insurance company will not be happy to repair it for you.
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