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The very popular general plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, pump problems, questions and answers discussion Forum
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Author:
WeekendPlbgWarrior (CA)
Hello all,
Big fan of this forum over the years while renovating various houses (including my parents' and my own). I have a question regarding the changing of a 2-bowl vanity to a 1-bowl vanity plus a washer-dryer unit. I want to replace the 2nd drain with a washer drain pipe but I am worried about backups/it not draining fast enough.
My question: can I just remove the cast iron fitting on the left side and replace it with a trap + vertical PVC pipe run? I will also cap off the left side of the T at the top.
The vent does indeed go outside although I am not sure how far the horizontal run is to the vent stack that ultimately goes out the roof.
Edit: this is on the lower floor of a 2-story house. The drain shown in the center goes into a concrete slab.
All nice cast iron but otherwise pretty hacky - not enough anchors on the copper and no nailing plates (yet). But hey, I guess it worked for 40 years so far...
Thanks in advance!
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
steve (CA)
The trap and drain piping for a clothes washer needs to be 2" minimum. The tee right above the cast iron pipe is reducing the 2" cast iron to 1½". That tee would need to be replaced, to provide a 2" side inlet for the washer drain. If you don't want to use a separate vent for the washer trap(as the existing sink drain has), the two tees and the piping between the two tees, above the cast iron pipe, would also need to be 2" minimum. A cleanout should also be installed, on the vertical pipe, above the tee that the right sink drains into. The washer drain trap needs to be between 6" and 18" above the floor and the top of the standpipe needs to be between 18" and 30" in height above the trap.
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Author:
packy
good advice from steve.
remove that no hub coupling
with a sawzall, cut the vent to the right of the top tee
take the old piping out
snake the 2" cast iron
run water in it and snake again
run more water and snake once more
using your photo, replace what you have removed with plastic pipe
increase the washer drain to 2"
the venting can stay 1 1/2
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Author:
x apprentice 22 (MA)
If your lucky the galvenized drain will be smooth inside.Lint likes to collect on the rough spots and make a clog.
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Author:
hj
Interesting way they piped that left hand sink. I guess they never heard you should NOT reduce the size of a drain as you go downstream. There are a couple of ways to do what you want to. No matter how you do it, the first thing will be to remove that 2 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 tee and replace it with a 2 x 2 x 1 1/2" one. Then you can either arm over to the washer location and put the trap on the end of the pipe with a standpipe, or duplicate what you now have, but use 2" pipe. The only difference with this method is you can install the trap at whatever height you want to.
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
that 90 under the existing Tee should have been a long sweep
i agree with everyone else...rerun it in 2" and your set...easy job
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Author:
dlh (TX)
yes most codes today and the pumps of new wshers want 2" to be ran but if you are not getting it inspected, and i assume you arent, all you have to do is remove all the left bank piping and install a new pipe, preferably copper, and add a trap as 1 1/2" will work if it does not have any restrictions. then install a plug where the sink vent ties back to the other one.
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
m & m (MD)
Very interesting in the method the plumbers used in eliminating a union on the left loop arrangement. Don't think I've seen a tee configured that way before.
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Author:
dlh (TX)
are my eyes deceiving me or is that tee for the left sink threaded on the bottom and leaded on the top?
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
m & m (MD)
Exactly. Cool.
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Author:
WeekendPlbgWarrior (CA)
Wow! You guys rock!
So, I am thinking I will just bite the bullet and yank everything and replace it all with new 2" PVC. It sounds like I need to:
1. Add a cleanout above where the drain goes into the floor.
2. Keep the trap 6"-18" off the floor and the top of the pipe within 18"-30" above the trap.
3. I would like this install to be CA inspection-friendly.
My question is, how do I add a vent to the washer drain? Would this be a parallel vertical run to the standpipe? Where would it be tied in?
Thanks again in advance.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
WeekendPlbgWarrior (CA)
@dlh
Yes, it is leaded at the top and threaded at the bottom. I thought that was a little odd myself. It's the only leaded part of the whole system as far as I have seen.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj
It is a "Tucker tee", (there were other fittings from the same company for other uses also), and we used a lot of them, but he must not have had a 1 1/2" version which is why he used the 2" and then a 2 x 1 1/2" reducing elbow under it.
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Author:
hj
That's the way they made them.
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Author:
hj
All you have to do is replace the tee. Everything above it can stay the way it is.
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Author:
steve (CA)
The washer trap can be wet vented through the vertical pipe that the sink drains into. Install 2" vertical pipe and tees, up to and including the cleanout and this will be the vent for the washer.
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Author:
dlh (TX)
i think your eyes are playing tricks on you hj as all the pipe looks to be the same size. i dont see 2" pipe anywhere around that tee
the washers trap does not continue to the vent pipe so all the vent pipe to the left side sink can be removed. the riser out of the trap for the washer should only be about 42"-48" off the floor
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
hj
The right hand tee is a 2 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 with a 1 1/2" branch. The elbow is a 2 x 1 1/2" reducing, (in this case INCREASING), ell and then he goes back to 2" into the 2" Tucker tee.
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Author:
dlh (TX)
i guess my eyes are playing tricks on me because i dont see that
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
hj
You CANNOT see that the right hand tee in the riser has a reduced branch"? And you CANNOT see that the "Tucker tee" is 2" on all sides? And finally, you CANNOT see that the 2" below that tee is going into an elbow which is fastened to the end of the 1 1/2" pipe OUT of the tee in the riser. IT is VERY obvious to me.
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Author:
dlh (TX)
i see the reduced branch. i see an 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" tee on top of a 2" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" tee.
i do not see 2" pipe anywhere but below the 2 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 tee on the riser
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
hj
WE haven't anything to go by as far as scale is concerned, but the branch going to the left LOOKS smaller than the other pipes, and also smaller than the left hand vertical pipe.
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Author:
dlh (TX)
what, you think that wall could be 2x6 instead of 2x4? i dont think so.
i can see a 2" pipe coming out of the floor and reducing slightly which indicates going from 2" to 1 1/2", not to mention the fact that they have copper ran behind, the drain arms are just slightly smaller than the rest of the galvy piping so it has to be 1 1/4", as i dont know of any smaller wall arms, other than the branches to the sinks and the stub out of the floor all the other pipe looks to be the same size and the amount of room they have going through the studs indicate 1 1/2" pipe
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
WeekendPlbgWarrior (CA)
You guys are great, debating the finer points of this rather hack plumbing job from the early 1960's. Love it!
The wall is in fact 2x4 construction and it is a 2" drain going into the floor. I'll be taking care of it all this weekend and will let you all know how it goes, complete with caliper measurements of the ID and OD of each pipe, tee, wye and ell.
Thanks again!
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Author:
dlh (TX)
we just need the id of the pipe and where it was located in the system....lol
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
tommyb (NY)
that can be done only if wet vents are allowed
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