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The very popular general plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, pump problems, questions and answers discussion Forum
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Author:
DIYer-Ric (WA)
Hi, this is my first post here. I just discovered this place today.
I'm building a new home, and am doing the plumbing trim out myself (yeah, for better or worse).
I'm doing sinks at the moment, and have a question about the types of pipe used under there.
At the box store, I was looking at the cheap, thin plastic "stuff", and was not able to come up with all of the fittings I needed.
So I looked in the section with the heavy gauge black plastic pipes (DWV I believe you call it). I found all the parts there. The P trap is still removable, but from there to the wall would all be solvent joints.
Would this be a problem? Can I make the drain system from sink to wall with this stuff? I have all the parts, and have dry fitted the whole thing together. It looks good to me. But before I glue it all down, I'd like to be sure there isn't some really good reason not to do it this way.
I just really don't like all that cheap thin plastic junk. The DWV should last forever! Is it okay to use it, or is it just over-kill?
Would the thinner white PVC be a better choice?
I already have the heavy black stuff cut & dry fitted for the kitchen sink. But I haven't stocked up for the rest of the sinks yet.
Thanks in advance.
-Ric
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Author:
dlh (TX)
many areas of the country require it to be done exactly the way you have done it. personally it is over-kill to me as slip joint (thin wall) pipe is perfectly fine to use from the wall to the sink and if installed properly solid and leak free as long as you dont go throwing and stuffing junk under the sink
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
The black stuff is not meant to be jointed to the white.abs is slightly different than pvc.You are not seeing the correct possibility for the project.If you could post pictures of the rough or drawing with dimensions we would be glade to help.Other wise find a local plumbing wholesaler or use the sponsors site to get the right parts to get it done correctly.
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Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
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Author:
DIYer-Ric (WA)
I'll agree with the over-kill to an extent. Yes, it's a LOT heavier duty than is really necessary. But in turn, it will prevent accidents from the wife & kids shoving way to much stuff under there.
But if it's allowable, and not going to be a problem, then the extra durability isn't a bad thing.
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Author:
DIYer-Ric (WA)
LemonPlumber
I'm not jointing it to white PVC. The system is black from the tail piece all the way to the wall, and the rough in from the wall is the same black stuff. The system looks extremely solid to me.
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Author:
dlh (TX)
it is solid. abs and pvc are like paternal twins. they are alike but not the same
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Sorry ,abs in the solid form will be just fine in your use.I would get the trap with nut ,or use fitting trap adapters so you can separate it for future repairs as need be.
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Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.
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Author:
DIYer-Ric (WA)
LemonPlumber
The P Trap fittings I'm using are the nut type so the trap can be removed if needed.
I'll snap a pic of the system tomorrow. But so far, I'm not seeing any reason not to glue it in.
Thanks!
-Ric
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Author:
hj
The only time it is a "bad" thing is when you have to take it apart for some reason. And given the quality of the plumber you described in the other posting, you may have to take apart to clean it when it becomes obstructed. At that point, I would cut your piping out and replace it with the "thin stuff", which is all I have ever used for the past 60 years.
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Author:
jimmy-o (CA)
I do like glued up ABS under a sink....bullet proof. And if it is ever necessary to access for a snake job (we don't see any cleanouts under sinks as a rule)....it is a simple matter to cut it on a straight section, and put it back together with a glue coupling or a fernco.
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
i use the $1 bag trap kit (thin wall)...easy to install and doesnt leak. I do not consider it low quality...if i had to do a drain cleaning id rather be able to take the trap apart in 10 seconds...
for a do it yourself'R i dont think it will be easy to make things line up with regular DWV fittings.
if you dont like the thin wall trap kit you can buy brass traps w/ slip nuts???
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Author:
DIYer-Ric (WA)
Thank you all for the thoughts on this. You've answered my question very well. At this point I see that there is a preference for using the bagged trap kits, but mostly because they're cheap & easy, not necessarily because they're better.
To me, what I have in place will work quite well, and have a long life span. We have a history of broken under-sink pipes caused by junk being stored under the sink, and getting pushed back into the pipes. Using the material I did affords a system that is strong, durable, and resistant to suck damage. Heck, it's practically bullet proof.
As for getting it all to line up.. that was a piece of cake. In fact, I had an easier time getting all the parts I needed out of that material than the thin stuff (box store didn't carry one important fitting I needed in the thin stuff).
FWIW: I doubt that I'll do all the sinks with abs. But I'll go ahead and keep the kitchen sinks done that way... for now at least.
Thanks again! I may be back as I try to hook up more of the stub in created by the hatchet plumber from heck.. 
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Author:
hj
You can only do so many cuts and couplings before you run out of room to do it. WE always have cleanouts on the sink lines, but some plumbers do not put them in accessible locations plus drywallers seem to hate cutting the holes for them when they do not have to, and I doubt that this customer has one given the quality of work that plumber seems to do.
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Author:
hj
It is not a question of hard/easy or cheap/expensive. It is that the "cheap thin stuff" is every bit as durable as the heavy stuff, and if it is installed properly it does not "come apart or break" when things bump them. You may find one big difference after you unscrew the trap's union nut a couple of times and find it either will not screw on straight or it cracks in the middle when you tighten it.
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Author:
packy
in MA, it is ilegal to have a slip nut connection on the outlet side of the trap.
a full size cleanout is required by code under a kitchen sink.
you simply rough the drain off center and instead of a 45 to aim it toward the tailpiece, use a "Y" with an end cleanout.
and, no, this requirement is not sidestepped by real plumbers. this is the way we were taught and this is the way we install.
in fact, when i install a double bowl sink, the only slip joints i use are at the tailpieces. the trap is hard piped and i use a vertical TY under the disposer ell with a short piece of sch 40 with a street 90 and a slip fitting going over to the basket strainer.
you could drive an F450 under my kitchen installs and they won't come apart.
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Author:
hj
Well, in Chicago we used tubular sink traps with an ips cast elbow, but tubular under lavatories. That does not make it "right" nor "better". Out here it is different, it is just the way it is.
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Author:
packy
"tubular sink traps with an ips cast elbow"
is that a washington trap? or maybe a philidelphia trap?
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Author:
hj
It was labled an "LA sink trap". The all cast ones without a swivel joint were "LA bath traps".
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Author:
packy
i'd have to check, but they are probably all ilegal in MA and they give you cancer in CA.
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Author:
hj
Doesn't give those of us between the two places much hope then, does it? I wonder if there is a sliding scale between the two, like painting a car door black on one edge and white on the other and not being able to tell where the color changes between the two. Maybe those in Chicago get cancer and go to jail.
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