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Sprinkler valve problem

Author: sum (FL)

I laid new sprinkler lines this summer and recently have not turned it on for over a month. Today I turned it on and it's not working like it used to.

I have two zones, controlled by a switch. The water comes from a well. I have this thing outside:

I assume the part with the eight screws is the piece that is diverting water between the two zones?

The pipes go inside to the garage and inside the garage is the pump.

The problem is when I water ZONE 1 everything is fine, but when I water ZONE 2, the water pressure is very low and the spray heads do not pop up all the way and the spray is very weak...but somehow the heads in ZONE 1 are also seeping water, so it looks like when it goes to ZONE 2, ZONE 1 is still getting some water.

Is the first step to open up that cover with eight screws?

Thanks,

Edited 1 times.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: LemonPlumber (FL) just cycling it a few times may clear debris stuck in it.yes you remove that cover to clean up the lobes.have repaired many of these with a few taps of my foot. ---- Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: sum (FL) Why would there be debris is it debris from the well water? I am drawing from the Biscayne Aquifer that is supposed to be nice clean water. Is this valve some popular generic part or odd model? I think it's been there for 40 years. I don't even know if it's plastic or metal it has been painted over.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: hj It is plastic and it is the same kind of valve some pool cleaning systems use for cycling the zones. There is a module inside that costs about $150.00 which restores it to proper operation.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: LemonPlumber (FL) Converting to a timer with a pump start relay and a couple solenoid valves will bring you into the 19th century but loads of wire and piping would be needed to get you to the twenty first.a atmospheric valve v b is in order. ---- Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem

Author: sum (FL)

It is metal I think aluminum, quite heavy. I removed the eight screws and inside is only one piece of plastic wheel/disc part.

I did not see any debris inside. It was clean. The bottom of this valve has four holes.

The lid cover and the part inside. This plastic wheel is the problem?

The lid cover says "K RAIN CYCLEMATIC DISTRIBUTION VALVE".

I put it back and the problem remains. I don't see any obviously broken part or any debris in the valve.

Could it be the spring in the wheel?

Re: Sprinkler valve problem

Author: LemonPlumber (FL)

does not look to bad sum how long an interval did you give between turning from first station to the second one?you may find you need to give the cam a few minutes for the vacuum from the first zone to relieve it,s self before it will drop correctly over the second lob.you should notice relief of a small amount of water from the open hole as this relief occurs.set the black wheel into the housing and rotate it with your hand should move smoothly around or clean any spots where it seems to drag.

----

Good Luck. Insulate your hot piping, although costly, it will pay you back every day.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem

Author: sum (FL)

I found their web site.

[www.krain.com]

This looks like the one I have, does mine look like it could be a very old model?

Quote:

6000 Series Indexing Valves

Features and Benefits

* Metal Die-Cast Body-Double – Durable, long lasting, and capable of high pressure applications.
* Available in 4 and 6 Outlet Models – Can quickly and easily change from two to six watering zones.
* Simplicity of Design – Valves are easily maintained and serviced for long product life.
* Operates at low 15 GPM at Pressure of 25-150 PSI – Ideal for pump-fed systems or high-flow city water systems.
* Built-in Atmospheric Vacuum Breaker – Releases any vacuum created between the pump and the valve on shut down.

6000 Series Indexing Valve

The 6000 line of indexing valves offers exceptional reliability and durability even under the dirtiest water conditions.

I waited between cycles for about 10 seconds. Actually come to think of it if I had it off for a day and turn it on it does this too.

So something is not seated right when it goes to ZONE 2.

Is there a way to reconfigure it such that when it turns on it goes to ZONE 2 instead of ZONE 1 just to experiment with this?

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: sum (FL) I took it apart today again and still not able to find any defective part that I can see. After I put it back now both ZONE 1 and ZONE 2 will turn sprinklers on for BOTH zones!!! I am going nuts. It's too bad I cannot leave the lids off and see how this works mechanically.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem

Author: dlh (TX)

get a piece of thick Plexiglas and make a transparent lid.

i would say your problem is in the stem & disc part.

did you look up the instructions where it shows some troubleshooting?

TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Problem: Valve Does Not Change or Cycle to Next Zone or Outlet

Cause: Debris or foreign objects preventing proper movement of stem and disk
assembly.

Solution: Remove valve top and check for foreign objects. Clean build-up from
walls of valve as necessary.

Solution: Check for freedom of movement of stem and disk assembly up and down
over the center pin in bottom of valve. Scale deposits may build up on the pin and
hold stem and disk assembly down. Clean pin and again check for freedom of
movement.

Cause: Disk may have expanded and is rubbing against inside walls of body.

Solution: Replace disk and clean build-up from walls of valve as necessary.

Cause: Restriction of flow causing pressure in valve to build up, preventing valve
from cycling.

Solution: Be sure that all operating outlets are not capped and that the flow to
operating zones is not restricted in any manner.

Solution: The backflow of water from uphill lines may be preventing the valve from
cycling properly. This can happen when the valve is placed too far below an
elevated irrigation line. If the valve cannot be placed close to the high point of the
system, a check valve should be installed near the valve in the outlet line that runs
uphill from the valve.

2. Problem: Water Comes Out of all the Valve Outlets

Cause: Stem and disk assembly not seating properly on valve outlet.

Solution: Check for sufficient water flow . A minimum of 15 GPM is required to
properly seat the disk.

Solution: Remove the valve top and clean the inside walls as necessary to ensure
that nothing is interfering with the up and down movement of the stem and disk
assembly inside the valve.

Solution: Make sure that the operating outlets are not capped and that the flow to
the operating zones is not restricted in any manner.
Solution: Replace disk if necessary.

Cause: Too many sprinkler heads on a zone will cause insufficient pressure for disk
to seat firmly over valve outlet.

Solution: Reduce the number of heads on the zone to obtain the proper sprinkler
operating pressure.

----------------------------

PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: hj You are describing a situation where the disc is progressing so far, and then stops, which often indicates a stripped gear somewhere, or an obstruction at that point jamming it. How do you restore it to zone 1?

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: sum (FL) Thanks dlh, I missed the "instructions" section. I will print that out and re-read it.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem

Author: sum (FL)

hj, I go from ZONE 1 to ZONE 2, by just hitting the cycle timer switch which is hooked up to the pump. I turn it on and it will go to ZONE 1. If I turn it off, and wait about 10 seconds and turn it on again, it will go to ZONE 2, and so on.

But after I took it apart last night and put everything back in, now everything changed.

What used to be ZONE 1 now, becomes ZONE 2. Now when I first turn it on, it goes to ZONE 2, and it will spray for about 5 minutes and stops.

When I cycled to the next ZONE, both zones sprays. I am surprised the water pressure from the pump seem to be enough to pressurize both zones at the same time.

So obviously when I put the parts back, I had clipped a 180 degree on the disc to cause it to go to ZONE 2 first.

and it is not seating correctly somehow. I just can't tell which part may be defective. The parts look simple to me.

Here is the FAQ on the site:

Quote:
Q: Water is coming out of all the valve outlets. What do I do?

A1: This problem can be caused when the stem and the disk assembly is not seating properly on the valve outlet. If so try this:

1.) Check for sufficient water flow. A minimum of 10 GPM is required to properly seat the disk. For water flow between 6 and 10 GPM, a stem and disk assembly with a lighter spring is available.

That can't be the reason as this was working fine before. And as evidence by the malfunction now even if I combine ZONE 1 and ZONE 2 together it can adequately power both zones at the same time.

Quote:
2.) Remove the valve top and check the inside walls to ensure that nothing is interfering with the up and down movement of the stem and disk assembly inside the valve.

I did not see anything inside the valve body.

Quote:
3.) Make sure that the operating outlets are not capped and that the flow to the operating zones is not restricted in any manner.

This is not the case either.

Quote:
A2: Too many sprinkler heads on a zone will cause insufficient pressure for the disk to seat firmly over the valve outlet. If so reduce the number of heads on the zone to obtain the proper sprinkler operating pressure.

Nope.

My thinking now is with the actual "disc module" perhaps the spring inside or something is worn or whatever.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: dlh (TX) when looking at the parts diagram my first thought was the spring. ---------------------------- PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Re: Sprinkler valve problem

Author: LemonPlumber (FL)

where the black wheel has to freely move when the pressure is reduced it is hanging up.Per you first photo see the rust that built up on the guide edge???this is where your problem was.If you had apiece of astick on sanding pad and used it on the edge of the black wheel .Like a hone you may find your problem is over.or you may find the metal has fatigued/dented and the chamber is out of round.Replace it with a new unit.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: hj Did I miss something on the picture, because I do not see any connection to this device from a "timer". Outwardly it looks like a simple mechanical device controlled by water flowing through it.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: sum (FL) hj the switch is connected to the pump which feeds the valve. The zone changes by simply turning on and off the pump and wait like 10 seconds.

Re: Sprinkler valve problem
Author: BadaBingBong Check to make sure you do not have a broken head or a leak. This would allow too much flow and act like you have too many heads in a zone.