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Author:
sgull (AK)
Not a direct plumbing question here but more of a tub/surround wall finishing question. I remodeled my bathroom with a new tub and tub wall surround. The wall surround is one of those Sterling Accord three-piece lock-together hard vinyl (Vikryl they call it) material pre-fabricated sections, one back wall section with the two end wall sections that attach to it. Around the edges of the surround are flanges which attach directly to the open stud framing behind. These flanges are 1/8" thick and 1 1/4" wide. I am seeking advice/suggestions how to deal with finishing out (with drywall) the top edge of the back of the surround where the design is a sloped contour on the back corners where it is raised a good half inch or more higher than the level of the straight flat top of most of the length. I guess I'd have to try to replicate that contour on my drywall cut there to match? Also, if I cover the 1/8" thick flanges up to the edge of the surround, the drywall wouldn't be flat there unless I did something like try to shave the back of it or I also considering liquid nailing some wooden paint stirrer sticks to the studs to fur them out 1/8". Comments/suggestions? Here's some pictures of the situation:
[i207.photobucket.com]
[i207.photobucket.com]
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Fir out the studs.
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
some contractors drywall over the flange and its just a bit angled...i dont think anyone notices
some drywall up to the flange and fill in the flange w/ mud
some knotch out the back of the drywall 1/8"
furing out works too
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Author:
hj
ALL plastic tub/shower units have the flange, but you don't see the drywallers worrying about sheeting over it. Unless you are using a straight edge to check the wall you will not even notice the "bulge".
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Author:
sgull (AK)
Okay then maybe I'll either just sheet over the top of the flange and not worry about it, or maybe I will decide to worry about it and fir out the studs. The idea of sheeting up to the edge of the flange and then filling in the big wide deep gap with mud seems to me like the mud joint would be prone to crack, so I probably wouldn't go that route unless someone who's seen this method work could briefly explain how it would be done correctly to make a good joint.
In regard to my other question: what about the top edge of the back of the surround where the design is a sloped contour on the back corners where it is raised a good half inch or more higher than the level of the straight flat top of most of the length. I guess I'd have to try to replicate that contour on my drywall cut there to match? Comments about this please too. thanks
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Author:
hj
Well, the links say the pictures have been moved or deleted so we have no idea what the problem is.
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Author:
sgull (AK)
Okay, sorry, links are working now. See that contour I'm talking about? Also, any comments about my concern that if I were to mud up directly to the surround edge that it would just crack soon?
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj
Dry wall mud would NOT adhere to the surround and therefore WOULD crack and fall out. The only thing I see is that the corner has a slope for drainage. Relieve the drywall in the corner to approximate the curve.
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Author:
sgull (AK)
Yes those slopes, as shown in the photos, are what I'm worried about. If you were to put a straightedge (or a straight cut sheet of drywall) along the back wall between the two corners at the bottom of the flange, you'd find you have a half-inch gap below the straight cut along the length of the midsection between the slopes on each side. If what is meant by "relieve the drywall in the corners to approximate the curve" is to make the bottom cut of of the drywall piece curved upward at the corners to match the sloping contour of the top of the edge of the surround there, then that is what I'd already been considering, although I think the tricky part is going to be the approximating. Maybe I could try to make a template out of heavy paper or something and then transfer the contour to the drywall piece before making my approximate cut. If what is meant by relieving drywall is to shave the backside as necessary to make the drywall fit flat, then I don't see how that could help in this particular situation. I realize this issue is straying too far from the topic of plumbing here, but I would like to know what is usually meant by the term "relieve" by drywallers. thanks
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj
Relieve is to remove material material so it fits. It should be very easy to figure out where the slope starts and how high it is, then cut the drywall appropriately.
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Author:
sgull (AK)
It's a slope with a curve, which makes it not as easy to cut to fit right and have an even gap to caulk as it might otherwise be if the slope was straight.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj
A drywaller, or adept handyman, would mark the drywall for a straight cut and then form the curve freehand. It is such a small section, how hard can it be to NOT overdo it?
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