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- over 420,000 Posts - PlumbingForum.com -
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Author:
drain snake
Have a customer that goes to Fl. They want me to turn the water off at curb, drain down water heater and blow out the lines with air.Mind you were in the northeast and he turns off his heat. Hes cheep. How does one hook up a air compressor to the lines and blow down the water pipe.
Thank You all.
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Author:
joe plumber (NE)
Have you ever winterized a place before?
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
you can put a tire valve setup onto a shower head and blow it out.
i think its foolish to turn your heat off
50 degree's would be a better idea..
he'd rather spend hundreds for a plumber to winterize and if it doesnt go right he'll be spending hundreds to repair the pipes/drywall
id make sure you charge enough to cover potential problems...if your doing it for $50 you'll be the loser when you owe $1,000 to do repairs in the spring.
my friend winterizes for $450-650
i cant imagine the heating bill at 50 degree's is much more
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Author:
Shoemaker2 (MA)
I live on Cape Cod and I drain dozens of homes and about four hotels for the winter. They save huge money in fuel and don't have to worry about power outages or boiler failure or anything, all winter long. Just the peace of mind knowing nothing bad will happen is well worth the fees I charge to blow out a home.
The way I handle it is:
Fist I make up an adapter to go from my compressor hose to a sill-cock or a low-point drain if the sill-cocks are frost-free w/ vac breakers.
Next I close all water closet stops, and hook a hose on the water heater drain and start draining water heater as I fill the tank with air.
After the water heater is empty I remove my hose and charge the tank to full pressure.
I then go to every fixture and run out the water until the water is gone and just air comes out.
after which I go and pump out the water from the toilets with a hand bilge pump, and open the angle stop to blow out the fill valve.
Next I stuff a ball of TP in the bowl opening to keep the sewer flies out, and add a little anti-freeze to protect the water ways
in the toilet through the overflow.
Then I run the washer and the dish washer to drain the solenoid valves, and pump some anti-freeze through the pump to the drain.
When done with all the water removal I go back and add a little anti-freeze to all the fixture traps.
Depending on what type of heat they have I will either blow out the heating zones or add antifreeze to the system.
A lot of the homes have air heat so I need to do nothing except drain the humidifier. When done I leave the system charged with air and in the Spring when the air is still in the system I know I can turn the water on with no worry. This post is pretty long so I may have missed something but you should get the picture.... you know all us plumbers have good common sense that carries us through most of these new tasks.
Some people and plumber think it is silly to drain a house for the winter but have a couple of floods under your belt and you will know it is well worth any price you need to charge for it.
Also the insurance companies agree with me that if you leave your home in freezing conditions and don't provide some type of fool proof protection for the home you are due to have a catastrophe and run the risk of being dropped.
I Hate fixing split pipes and will do whatever it take to avoid having to do it!
In addition sometime you will get a water heater like a boiler Mate with the feed in the same place as the drain and will make it hard to blow out. The way I handle this is but putting a dime in a faucet aerator and forcing the cold down the hot and back feeding the tank with the cold supply closed.
Edited 3 times.
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Author:
Shoemaker2 (MA)
What happens when the power goes out and the owner is laying on the beach in FLA. You get to do the fix-up and the insurance company wants to know why the home was left unattended.
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Author:
packy
shoemaker2, that's pretty much a foolproof method you use. the only thing i do differently is remove the shower head, turn the shower arm upside down and pour a cup of non-toxic antifreeze down the pipe into the valve.
somehow, i don't trust that the water is completely out of the valve. sort of a belt and suspenders approach.
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Author:
Shoemaker2 (MA)
Hey Packy I used to take the time to do that but now I only do it if it is a plastic valve like Delta and I am not sure it is dry.
But with 140psi blowing through a valve there isn't much chance of trapped water. I do advise ear protection when opening faucet though!
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Author:
Shoemaker2 (MA)
So what do you think?
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Author:
Velvetfoot (NY)
Awesome post.
So you can use a less-than-powerful compressor (not like the towed models the sprinkler guys use), cause you charge the water tank? You go to 140 psi?
Can you get satisfactor air flow through the heating system with same compressor?
Would you have to be careful with stuff that has a bladder like expansion or well tank, or would it just compress to max?
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Author:
Shoemaker2 (MA)
It has never been a problem with bladders so far.
You can blow out the boiler and baseboard too but you don't need the high pressure, because it will blow the relief at 30psi.
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Author:
Velvetfoot (NY)
True.
Thanks again for the tips.
That water can hide in the darndest places.
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Author:
Shoemaker2 (MA)
Your welcome.
Sometime if I am not sure I got it all I will blow a little anti-freeze through tell it can be tasted at the purge valve.
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